Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
great flavor, dry and leathery texture.

I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
cholesterol count).

Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
the chops up with lard, that is.)

Karen MacInerney
Kitchen experimenter, family chauffeur, and culinary mystery author

On 8 Nov 2005 15:19:15 -0800, "Karen MacInerney"
> wrote:

>I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
>suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
>bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
>cholesterol count).

Brine them first.

Christine

Karen MacInerney wrote:
> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> great flavor, dry and leathery texture.
>
> I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
> suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
> bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
> cholesterol count).
>
> Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> the chops up with lard, that is.)

Yeah, the pork generally available in U.S. supermarkets today is a
real problem. I keep reading that the distribution of 'heirloom'
breeds and other sources of fattier pork is widening but haven't seen
much evidence of it.

And I'm still a big skeptic about brining. I resent that you should
have to do it in the first place, and I know that water, salt and sugar
just can't replace what is really missing, namely, marbled fat.

So what to do with those chops? For the Beard recipe, cut back a lot
on the amount of liquid and on the length of time you cook them. Try
for barely past pink.

Otherwise, I've had okay results with two other methods. One is to
bread them and bake them -- again until just barely done. The other is
to do them in a pan over low-medium heat *without* browning them on
high heat first. You can fry up some onions or mushrooms or both
separately and smother the chops, but basically cook them quite slowly.
The usual browning doesn't really seal in any juices and with this
pork it just dries out and toughens the surface. -aem

Karen MacInerney wrote:
> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> great flavor, dry and leathery texture.
>
> I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
> suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
> bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
> cholesterol count).
>
> Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> the chops up with lard, that is.)

Your recipe has a misprint. After one hour set your timer for another
hour.... one hour is way too little time for any kinda braised meat.
Tenderness through braising hasn't a whit to do with fat, has to do
*only* with collagen... pork loin chops contain very little collagen,
so it can take long slow cooking to break down the muscle tissue. I
usually choose pork shoulder chops for braising, which have a lot more
collagen than loin chops, and stlil they need about 2 hours for falling
off the bone buttery tender.

Sheldon

at Tue, 08 Nov 2005 23:19:15 GMT in <1131491955.746197.314100
@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, (Karen MacInerney)
wrote :

>Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
>that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
>broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
>rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
>great flavor, dry and leathery texture.

How much liquid did you have? If the liquid doesn't fully cover the items
to be braised, the meat will dry and become tough. However, if the liquid
is excessive, so that the chop is more immersed in a soup, then the liquid
will leach all the flavour out and there's still a risk that the meat will
be dry once removed from the liquid. You want just enough liquid to
*barely* cover the meat.

What was the liquid temperature during the process? It should be just
barely at a simmer. Higher temperatures produce toughness. Lower
temperatures and the meat sits there and does little.

I must say that 1 hour sounds very rushed. A couple of nights back I
"rushed" a braised pork chop by doing it for 4 hours and it was sort of at
the limits of acceptibility - not tough but not melt in the mouth either.

Pork loin is pretty lean, too. My favourite chop for braising is the blade
chop. Loin is better for faster methods like grilling or fast frying.

Don't dismiss, also, the possibility that the recipe has issues. If you've
tried the same thing multiple times and it still doesn't produce acceptable
results, you may be looking at a bum recipe. Even great chefs can have
recipes that don't work for whatever reason.

--
Alex Rast

(remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

In article .com>,
"Karen MacInerney" > wrote:

> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> great flavor, dry and leathery texture.
>
> I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
> suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
> bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
> cholesterol count).
>
> Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> the chops up with lard, that is.)
>
> Karen MacInerney
> Kitchen experimenter, family chauffeur, and culinary mystery author

Grill them. A little pink inside is okay. Otherwise, I think they're
awful - as you described. Grilling is the only chance I have with them.
--
http://www.jamlady.eboard.com, updated 11-7-05 with the first story
about our trip to San Francisco for Nephew Pat's wedding last weekend.

On Tue 08 Nov 2005 04:19:15p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Karen
MacInerney?

> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> great flavor, dry and leathery texture.
>
> I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
> suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
> bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
> cholesterol count).
>
> Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> the chops up with lard, that is.)

I have the same problem. :-( Instead, I buy thin chops, dip in buttermilk,
then in breadcrumbs, and fry about 5 minutes on each side. Delicious,
tender, and juicy.

--
Wayne Boatwright *¿*
_____________________________________________

A chicken in every pot is a *LOT* of chicken!

Karen MacInerney wrote:

> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> great flavor, dry and leathery texture.

One hour for a braise is way too short. If you're going to do a real
braise, it needs a good four or five hours.

The real problem with the recipe is that it was written in the last
century when pork was raised, butchered and trimmed differently.
Braising requires a bit of fat and a bit of connective tissue, neither
of which will modern pork loin have in any abundance.

> I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
> suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
> bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
> cholesterol count).

It will affect the flavor and it will add a bit of fat inside the meat,
That would help some. If you don't want the bacon flavor, use salt pork
or blanch the bacon in boiling water for a few minutes.

> Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> the chops up with lard, that is.)

You can brine it, but for a braise it will only provide minimal benefit.
That's better for grilling or other fast open-air techniques.

You can inject it with a water-oil marinade, or a water-gelatin-oil
marinade and get some benefit. But none of these techniques will give
you any better than a merely good result.

The greater reality is that pork loin isn't well-suited to braising.
Long-cooked pork needs to be a cut with cartilage and fat.

For the chops, a very simple technique for getting as good as they can
is to double-dip them and pan-finish. I'm assuming chops from 3/4 to 1
inch thick.

Set up 3 dishes: seasoned flour, egg wash, and seasoned crumbs. Dip the
chops into the flour, into the egg, into the crumbs (pressing to make
sure of the adhesion), back into the egg (quickly) and into the crumbs,
pressing again. Lay the chops on a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap
and put into the fridge for 1/2 hour, or more to dry. Wouldn't hurt to
turn them over halfway through. To finish, I do a little bit of 1/2 oil
and 1/2 butter in a skillet over medium heat. Brown the chops on both
sides. They're done when both sides are a rich brown. The meat steams
inside the crust. I usually serve them with a light gravy made from what
sticks to the pan, a splash of dry white wine (to deglaze), a dab of
beurre manie, some milk and a grating of parmesan. Cook gravy for 3
minutes and serve over the chops.

Pastorio

"Karen MacInerney" > wrote in message
oups.com...

> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe
> of James Beard's that involved browning thick
> pork loin chops, then braising them in broth with
> some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before
> with rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday
> was no different: great flavor, dry and leathery texture.

As others have pointed out, an hour is much too long a cooking time for
today's pork loin. I suggest you try to find some neck cutlets -- then
you've got a better chance of finding something with a bit of marbling.

One time on Usenet, Wayne Boatwright > said:
> On Tue 08 Nov 2005 04:19:15p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Karen
> MacInerney?
>
> > Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> > that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> > broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> > rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> > great flavor, dry and leathery texture.

<snip>

> > Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> > the chops up with lard, that is.)

I wish I did, but the one time I tried to braise pork chops, I had the
same experience as you. I gave up on it -- now Miguel dredges them in
seasoned flour and fries them very gently.

> I have the same problem. :-( Instead, I buy thin chops, dip in buttermilk,
> then in breadcrumbs, and fry about 5 minutes on each side. Delicious,
> tender, and juicy.

That sounds good! Do you season the bread crumbs at all, Wayne?


--
Jani in WA (S'mee)
~ mom, Trollop, novice cook ~

One time on Usenet, Wayne Boatwright > said:
> On Wed 09 Nov 2005 09:28:34a, S'mee wrote in rec.food.cooking:

<snip>

> >> I have the same problem. :-( Instead, I buy thin chops, dip in
> >> buttermilk, then in breadcrumbs, and fry about 5 minutes on each side.
> >> Delicious, tender, and juicy.
> >
> > That sounds good! Do you season the bread crumbs at all, Wayne?
>
> I often use the Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs. I usually season the chops
> first, before breading. A little granulate garlic, salt, pepper, paprika,
> or whatever I feel like at the moment. With plain breadcrumbs, I usually
> add some dry herbs, the type varies. Also very good is the addition of
> Parmesan cheese to the breadcrumbs.

Thanks hon, I put this in my "must try" file... :-)


--
Jani in WA (S'mee)
~ mom, Trollop, novice cook ~

On Wed 09 Nov 2005 09:28:34a, S'mee wrote in rec.food.cooking:

> One time on Usenet, Wayne Boatwright > said:
>> On Tue 08 Nov 2005 04:19:15p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Karen
>> MacInerney?
>>
>> > Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
>> > that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
>> > broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
>> > rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
>> > great flavor, dry and leathery texture.
>
> <snip>
>
>> > Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
>> > the chops up with lard, that is.)
>
> I wish I did, but the one time I tried to braise pork chops, I had the
> same experience as you. I gave up on it -- now Miguel dredges them in
> seasoned flour and fries them very gently.
>
>> I have the same problem. :-( Instead, I buy thin chops, dip in
>> buttermilk, then in breadcrumbs, and fry about 5 minutes on each side.
>> Delicious, tender, and juicy.
>
> That sounds good! Do you season the bread crumbs at all, Wayne?

I often use the Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs. I usually season the chops
first, before breading. A little granulate garlic, salt, pepper, paprika,
or whatever I feel like at the moment. With plain breadcrumbs, I usually
add some dry herbs, the type varies. Also very good is the addition of
Parmesan cheese to the breadcrumbs.

--
Wayne Boatwright *¿*
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

Karen MacInerney wrote:

> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> great flavor, dry and leathery texture.
>
> I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
> suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
> bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
> cholesterol count).
>
> Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> the chops up with lard, that is.)

I have never been terribly impressed with braised pork chops. The best
sort of braised pork chops that I have done was chops stuffed with pitted
prunes. It works well as a dinner for one or two but can be easily
adapted for more. Get nice thick chops and slice a pocket. Insert two
pitted prunes. Season the chops with salt and pepper then brown them.
Toss in small potatoes, onion and chopped carrots and add some apple
juice. Slap a top on the pan and cook over low heat for 20 minutes.

S'mee wrote:
> One time on Usenet, Wayne Boatwright > said:
> > On Wed 09 Nov 2005 09:28:34a, S'mee wrote in rec.food.cooking:
>
> <snip>
>
> > >> I have the same problem. :-( Instead, I buy thin chops, dip in
> > >> buttermilk, then in breadcrumbs, and fry about 5 minutes on each side.
> > >> Delicious, tender, and juicy.
> > >
> > > That sounds good! Do you season the bread crumbs at all, Wayne?
> >
> > I often use the Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs. I usually season the chops
> > first, before breading. A little granulate garlic, salt, pepper, paprika,
> > or whatever I feel like at the moment. With plain breadcrumbs, I usually
> > add some dry herbs, the type varies. Also very good is the addition of
> > Parmesan cheese to the breadcrumbs.
>
> Thanks hon, I put this in my "must try" file... :-)

Sheesh... how yoose carry on you'd think none of ya ever hoid of Shake
N' Bake.

Sheldon UNbraised

Karen MacInerney wrote:

> Last night, out of sheer laziness, I used a recipe of James Beard's
> that involved browning thick pork loin chops, then braising them in
> broth with some sliced onions for an hour. I've done it before with
> rather dry and jaw-exhausting results. Yesterday was no different:
> great flavor, dry and leathery texture.
>
> I've read that pork these days is less fatty than it used to be, and
> suspect that might be the culprit. I've considered larding them with
> bacon, but I think that would affect the flavor (not to mention my
> cholesterol count).
>
> Anyone have a braising tip they'd like to share? (Other than shooting
> the chops up with lard, that is.)
>
> Karen MacInerney
> Kitchen experimenter, family chauffeur, and culinary mystery author
>
I've recently had my first success with a pork stew - the meat was
pretty lean but did contain some fat. I stewed it below simmering point.
That seems to have made the difference. Apparently, stews are meant to
be cooked at 70 degrees Celsius. Too hard to control for me, but a bare
simmer or just below is manageable.