Mashed potatoes are easy: peel, quarter, boil, add milk and butter,
then whip them to death with an electric mixer. Perfect mashed potatoes
take a bit more work.

Use Russett potatoes; they are the fluffiest. Scrub the potatoes with a
vegetable brush under running water. One per person and one for the pot
is the rule-of-thumb. Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a large pot
and cover with cold water. Make sure water covers potatoes by at least
an inch; two inches is better.

Bring the water to a boil, adjust heat to maintain a strong simmer, and
cook the potatoes for 20 to 30 minutes, until a paring knife or sharp
fork pierces and removes from the potato with little resistance. Drain
off the water and remove the potatoes from the pan.

Spear the potatoes with a fork and remove the skin using a paring
knife. Now quarter the peeled potatoes and place in food mill or ricer
and process back into the warm pan. Alternately, add liquid butter and
seasoning, place quartered potatoes in the warm pan and smash with a
potato masher, preferably one with a disk bottom and small holes (I use
a Rösle and love it!). Leave the potatoes a bit lumpy.

If you have not already done so, add Half-and-Half and butter to the
potoatoes. Use 4 tablespoons (one whole stick) of unsalted butter and
1/2 cup of Half-and-Half per pound of potatoes cooked. Add salt and
pepper (consider white pepper here) to taste.

These will be perfect, but not spectacular. Add scallions, garlic,
Creme Fraîche or sour cream, etc. to make truly spectacular potatoes.
My favorite recipe right now:

1 1/4 pounds russet potatoes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup Creme Fraîche or sour cream
1/4 cup half-and-half
1 large shallot, chopped very fine
1 to 2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper to taste

Add additional salt and pepper to your own taste.




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