Coconut Relish

This is the most popular relish of South India. Although its flavor
will vary from state to state, it consists essentially of freshly
grated coconut and mustard seeds. The mustard seeds are sizzled in hot
oil and folded into the coconut. Some Indians flavor the relish with
ground roasted yellow split peas (bhona channa dal ka ataa); others
with tomato. But the most refreshing and fragrant is the Malayali
version from Kerala, which adds chopped fresh coriander. This herb also
titnts the relish a very appealing pale green color.

Coconut relish generally accompanies southern delicacies. Serve it with
Foamy White Steamed Rice and Bean Dumplings and with southern or
southwestern vegetarian meals that are characteristically flavored with
black mustard seeds.

1 cup packed fresh grated coconut
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves
(optional)
2 green chilies (or 1/4 small green bell pepper plus 1/4 teaspoon dried
ground red pepper)
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 tablespoons hot water
4 tablespoons usli ghee (see tips, below), or oil (preferably sesame)
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

Put coconut, yogurt, coriander leaves, chilies, salt, and hot water
into the container of an electric blender, and blend until finely
pureed. Put into a small serving bowl.
Heat the ghee or oil over medium-high heat in a small frying pan.
When it is very hot, carefully add mustard seeds. Keep a pot lid or
splatter screen handy, since the seeds may splutter and splatter. When
the seeds stop spluttering and turn gray, immediately pour the ghee and
seeds over the coconut puree. Mix thoroughly, check for salt, and
serve.

Note: This relish may be prepared ahead and refrigerated for up to 2
days. Remove from refrigerator at least 15 minutes before serving.

Julie Sahni shares her tips:
.. One coconut will contain more than enough meat for this recipe. See
tips from Gourmet on cracking and grating fresh coconut.
.. Use full-fat yogurt for the most authentic results.
.. Ubiquitous in Indian cuisine, usli ghee is similar to French
clarified brown butter and adds a distinct nutty flavor. To make it,
start with a third more unsalted butter than you will need for the
recipe. Melt the butter over low heat, then increase the heat to medium
low and simmer the butter, without stirring, until it stops crackling
and the milk solids brown and drop to the bottom. Skim off any foam
from the top, and strain the ghee through a colander lined with
cheesecloth. Ghee will keep at room temperature, covered, for several
months.


Makes 1 1/3 cup.


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