Avocado Ice

(Nieve de Aguacate)
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted
from Zarela Martinez's book The Food and Life of Oaxaca.

The idea of making ice cream from avocados is not strange or outlandish
to Oaxacans. In many Latin American countries, avocados are eaten as
dessert. (Brazilians make them into a sweet mousse.) Nieve de Aguacate
is one of the perennial favorites at Oaxaca City ice-cream stands. It
is naturally creamier than the usual fruit-based nieves; but some acid
is necessary to offset the blandness of the avocado. Fresh lime juice
is the perfect complement.

2 cups water
1 cup granulated sugar
2 ripe Hass avocados, peeled and seeded
2 cups whole milk
1/4 cup (approximately) freshly squeezed lime juice

Make the simple syrup: Combine the water and sugar in a small saucepan.
Heat gently, stirring constantly, until the sugar is completely
dissolved. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until reduced to 1
cup. Let cool to room temperature. (Syrup can be made ahead and stored,
refrigerated, in a tightly covered container.)
In a blender or food processor, process the avocados and milk to a
perfectly smooth texture. Add the syrup and lime juice, starting with a
little less than all of each and adding more to taste.

Freeze by manufacturer's directions for your ice-cream maker. Or to
still-freeze, pour into a 1-quart container (preferably stainless
steel), place in the freezer, and freeze for 2 hours. Remove and beat
the mixture until it is a fine-textured slush, using a chilled rotary
beater or hand-held electric mixer (with beaters chilled). The aim is
to break up the ice crystals and aerate the mixture for a fluffier
texture. Return to the freezer for 1 more hour; remove and beat in the
same manner. Return to the freezer until ready to serve.

Chef Zarela Martinez shares her tips:
.. "Oaxaca City is one of the world capitals of ices or 'snows,'" says
Martinez. Countless flavors, including avocado, papaya, guava, and
tamarind, are served in the plaza of La Soledad church. This basic
recipe can be used as the basis for experimentation with many kinds of
tropical fruit: Instead of the lime juice and avocados, use a thawed
14-ounce package of frozen fruit pulp (sold pureed or in chunks in
Latin American and Asian stores). If using pureed fruit, you can omit
the blending or food-processing step and simply mix the ingredients in
a bowl before freezing. Adjust the amount of simple syrup according to
the natural sweetness of the fruit.
.. "The texture you should be trying to achieve is not that of a rich,
silky ice cream, but rather something like a sherbet or ice milk," says
Martinez. She recommends the Donvier brand ice cream maker from France
for the excellent Oaxacan-style ices it produces, but this recipe works
with any brand.

Makes about 1 quart.



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