Many traditional breads in Italy taste so good because they are leavened

with a biga; a spongy mixture made from flour, water, and some commercial

yeast. This sponge ferments at room temperature on its own, for a few

hours or as long as two days.



If you mix a biga in a 4-cup glass measuring cup or clear glass bowl,

you'll be able to see its bubbling action throughout the process. You'll

also give the mixture the room it needs to expand to three times its

original volume. Cover it with plastic wrap and tuck it inside a microwave

oven or an unlit range oven for 12 to 48 hours. The thick mixture will

bubble up and rise, and then fall slightly. At the end, it will look like

pancake batter.



To make bread dough, you mix the sponge with flour and water, adding salt

for flavor. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface for 4 to 6

minutes, or until the dough is resilient. Even novice bakers will sense

when the dough has been sufficiently kneaded: It feels alive.



At this point, you may set aside the dough to rise--just once, or as often

as three times--punching it down between rises. You might even cover the

bowl tightly and leave the dough in the refrigerator for several hours.

Because a slow rise provides more time for complex flavors to develop,

bread made this way will taste even better.



Any all-purpose flour is suitable for the following recipe. It contains a

small amount of whole-wheat flour for color and flavor, but the recipe

will work perfectly well with all-purpose flour alone. Filtered or bottled

water is best if your tap water contains chemicals that might add off

flavors. Active dry yeast, not instant dry yeast, is specified here

because its slower rise results in a better flavor.



If you're a novice, you may want to prepare bread by hand this first time.

The experience will be more pleasurable, and educational, as you feel how

soft and moist this dough should be. But the recipe will also work in a

food processor or electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. A plastic dough

scraper makes quick work of cleaning the bowl. Bake the bread on heavy

baking pans that don't buckle with the heat. If you have a ceramic baking

stone, preheat it and bake the loaves directly on it for a crisper crust.

After the baked bread is cool, store it in a brown paper bag for a day or

two.



If you choose to double this recipe to make 4 loaves, add only 1

tablespoon of salt for the double-batch recipe. and doubling is an

excellent idea; it's barely more work and you'll have extra loaves to

store in the freezer.





Rustic Bread

Yield: 2 loaves (about 1 pound each)



Sponge:



1 package (1/4-ounce) active dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)

1/2 cup warm bottled or filtered water (105F to l15F)

3/4 cup all-purpose flour



Dough:



1 1/2 cups warm bottled or filtered water (105F to l15F)

1 cup whole-wheat flour

2 teaspoons salt

3 to 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour



To prepare the sponge: In a medium bowl, combine the yeast and water. Stir

to dissolve. Add the flour and beat to make a batter. Cover tightly with

plastic wrap. Set aside in a draft free spot for 12 to 48 hours.



To prepare by hand: Scrape the sponge into a large mixing bowl. Add the

water, whole wheat flour, and salt. Beat with a wooden spoon to make a

batter. Adding about 1/2 cup at a time, incorporate 2 1/2 cups of

all-purpose flour, mixing well after each addition.



Measure the remaining 1 cup of flour. Dust a work surface with 1

tablespoon of the flour and pour the rest in a mound alongside your work

surface. Turn the dough onto the work surface. Clean the bowl with a

plastic dough scraper. Clean hands and scraper with flour. Lightly dust

the dough with a little of the remaining flour. Using the dough scraper,

turn the dough over on itself until its outer surface is no longer sticky.



Knead the dough, dusting the work surface as necessary, for 4 to 6

minutes, or until the dough is springy. All of the flour may not be

needed. Coat a large bowl with no-stick spray. Shape the dough into a

ball, and place in the bowl. Coat with spray. Cover with plastic wrap; set

aside to rise at room temperature for about 1 hour, or until doubled.



Scatter 2 to 3 tablespoons of cornmeal on a large baking sheet. Punch down

the dough. Divide in half. Allow to sit for 10 minutes. On a lightly

floured work surface, use lightly floured palms to press each dough half

into a rectangle, about 12 by 6 inches. Starting at one long end, roll

into a tube and pinch the ends to seal. Rub the loaves all over with

flour. Place the loaves on the prepared baking sheet. Dust the loaves with

flour. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rise for about 1 hour, or

until doubled in size.



Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.



Bake the loaves for 25 to 30 minutes, or until they are well-browned and

an instant-reading thermometer registers 200 F in the center of each loaf.

Remove to a rack to cool.



To prepare in a food processor: Place the sponge in a food processor work

bowl fitted with a plastic or metal blade. Add dough ingredients and

process according to recipe directions.



To prepare with an electric mixer: Place the sponge in the large bowl of

an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add dough ingredients and beat

according to recipe directions.



To freeze the bread: Cool completely, then cut into slices 1 inch thick.

Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, then in aluminum foil.



To thaw the bread: Unwrap the bread and discard the plastic wrap. Separate

the slices and place them on the foil. Place in a preheated 350F oven for

about 10 minutes, or until warm. This method produces a crisp crust.



Variations



Cheese Bread

After pressing the dough into two rectangles, sprinkle each with 1/2

teaspoon minced fresh rosemary (or crumbled dried oregano, thyme, or

sage),

plus 1/2 cup shredded Gruyere, Fontina, Tuscan Pecorino, or provolone

cheese, mixed with 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese.



Olive Bread

Work 1/2 cup pitted, slivered ripe olives into the dough during the

kneading.



Rustic Bread Rolls

Before the last rising, shape the dough into 16 small or 8 large ovals.

Place on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal. Dust with flour. Cover with

plastic wrap and set aside to rise for about 45 minutes, or until doubled.

Bake in a preheated 425F oven for about 15 minutes, or until the rolls are

well browned.



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