COCONUT RELISH

This is the most popular relish of South India. Although its flavor
will vary from state to state, it consists essentially of freshly
grated coconut and mustard seeds. The mustard seeds are sizzled in hot
oil and folded into the coconut. Some Indians flavor the relish with
ground roasted yellow split peas (bhona channa dal ka ataa); others
with tomato. But the most refreshing and fragrant is the Malayali
version from Kerala, which adds chopped fresh coriander. This herb also
titnts the relish a very appealing pale green color.

Coconut relish generally accompanies southern delicacies. Serve it with
Foamy White Steamed Rice and Bean Dumplings and with southern or
southwestern vegetarian meals that are characteristically flavored with
black mustard seeds.

1 cup packed fresh grated coconut
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves
(optional)
2 green chilies (or 1/4 small green bell pepper plus 1/4 teaspoon dried
ground red pepper)
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 tablespoons hot water
4 tablespoons usli ghee (see tips, below), or oil (preferably sesame)
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1=2E Put coconut, yogurt, coriander leaves, chilies, salt, and hot water
into the container of an electric blender, and blend until finely
pureed. Put into a small serving bowl.
2=2E Heat the ghee or oil over medium-high heat in a small frying pan.
When it is very hot, carefully add mustard seeds. Keep a pot lid or
splatter screen handy, since the seeds may splutter and splatter. When
the seeds stop spluttering and turn gray, immediately pour the ghee and
seeds over the coconut puree. Mix thoroughly, check for salt, and
serve.

Note: This relish may be prepared ahead and refrigerated for up to 2
days. Remove from refrigerator at least 15 minutes before serving.

Julie Sahni shares her tips with Epicurious:
=B7 One coconut will contain more than enough meat for this recipe. See
tips from Gourmet on cracking and grating fresh coconut.
=B7 Use full-fat yogurt for the most authentic results.
=B7 Ubiquitous in Indian cuisine, usli ghee is similar to French
clarified brown butter and adds a distinct nutty flavor. To make it,
start with a third more unsalted butter than you will need for the
recipe. Melt the butter over low heat, then increase the heat to medium
low and simmer the butter, without stirring, until it stops crackling
and the milk solids brown and drop to the bottom. Skim off any foam
from the top, and strain the ghee through a colander lined with
cheesecloth. Ghee will keep at room temperature, covered, for several
months.


Makes 1 1/3 cup.


FOAMY WHITE STEAMED RICE AND BEAN DUMPLINGS

Idlee is the world-famous south Indian breakfast or tiffin treat. It is
made with a fermented batter containing soaked black gram bean paste
and rice semolina (cream of rice). The batter is poured into the
depressions in the idlee molds and steamed to yield porous, spongy
cushions called idlee. The proportion of beans to rice is the most
crucial element in making light and airy idlees: The rice is always
twice the quantity of beans. The dumplings expand when they are
steamed, and their nutritive value goes up with the fermentation of the
batter; they become rich in proteins that are easily digestible.

These dumplings are traditionally served with coconut chutney and Red
Gun Powder (see tips at bottom of Idlee Sambaar recipe). Children
usually like to eat them with palm jaggery syrup, which is somewhat
difficult to find here in the United States. However, unsulphured
molasses, natural honey, and maple syrup make wonderful substitutes.

The best way to keep the dumplings warm is to put them in another
steamer over hot (not boiling) water. You may use any kind you want as
long as the steamer is large enough to accommodate all the dumplings
without crushing them.

1 1/3 cups white split gram beans (urad dal)
1 1/3 cups water
2 1/2 cups cream of rice cereal
1 teaspoon coarse salt, or to taste (optional)
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup light sesame oil or light vegetable oil

1=2E Pick clean and wash the beans. Put them in a bowl and add water to
cover by at least 2 inches, and let them soak for 8 hours. Drain and
rinse the beans.
2=2E Add the beans and 1 1/3 cups water to the container of a food
processor or blender and puree them. The puree should be extremely
smooth, light, and fluffy. Transfer to a large bowl.

3=2E Line a sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth and put the cream of
rice cereal in it. Hold the sieve under cold running water right in the
kitchen sink. Rinse the cereal until no clinging starch is remaining
and the water begins to run clear through the cheesecloth. Squeeze the
rice cereal thoroughly of all moisture and add it to the bean paste.
Beat the bean and rice mixture thoroughly. Add salt if desired. Cover
the bowl with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap and place it in a warm
place for 8 to 12 hours to ferment the batter.

4=2E When you are ready to make the dumplings, stir the baking soda
gently into the batter, using a rubber spatula. (Do not overblend as
the batter must remain foamy and airy for the dumplings to come out
light.) Let the batter rest for 4 to 5 minutes.

5=2E While the batter is resting, cut pieces of cheesecloth into neat
rounds or squares to fit the depressions of the idlee dumpling racks.
Each piece of cheesecloth lining can be used twice. Therefore you will
need half as many pieces for lining as the number of dumplings. The
cheesecloth pieces should be slightly larger than the depressions so
that they overhang by about 1/3 inch.

6=2E Line the dumpling racks with the pieces of cheesecloth. Brush them
lightly with oil. Bring water to a boil in the idlee steamer, a
pressure cooker, or a 6- to 8-quart sauce pot in which the idlee racks
fit.

7=2E Spoon about 1/4 to 1/3 cup batter into each lined depression of the
rack. Attach the racks and place in the steamer.

8=2E Steam the dumplings for 12 to 15 minutes or until a toothpick
inserted into them comes out clean. Remove the racks from the steamer
apparatus and separate the dumpling racks. Pick up each dumpling with
the cloth and gently peel away the cheesecloth. Place the steamed
dumplings in another steamer or a covered dish to keep them warm.

9=2E Turn the cheesecloth pieces over and line the racks with the smooth
reverse side up. Brush lightly with oil. Proceed with the remaining
batter the same way.

To serve, place the dumplings (2 per person) in a rimmed soup plate or
a shallow bowl about 5 inches in diameter. Make an indentation in the
center of the dumpling with your index finger or with the back of a
wooden spoon. Pour about 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons sesame oil in the
depression and over the dumplings.

Julie Sahni shares her tips with Epicurious:
=B7 An idlee steamer looks like a a multitiered serving platter with
egg-shaped indentations in each round tier to hold the batter. The
indentations are perforated to allow the steam to pass through as the
idlee are cooking (which keeps them light), and the whole stack fits
into a covered pot. Idlee steamers are available online at
www.innoconcepts.com/idleez.htm. If you don't have one, an egg poacher
can be used, but the idlee won't be quite as light.
=B7 Split white gram beans are available online at
www.ethnicgrocer.com, under the name urid dal.
=B7 Part of the vegetarian cuisine of south India, this dish, which is
traditionally served at tiffin (a lunch or midmorning snack), contains
the perfect proportion of rice to beans to create a complete protein
- the combination of various sources of protein that vegetarians must
consume in order to get all the amino acids present in meat. "And,"
says Sahni, "because the beans are fermented, their molecules are
broken down in a way that makes them easier to digest."

Makes twenty-eight to thirty 2 1/2-inch round dumplings.