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Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
As soon as I read about that NY Times/Jim Lahey no-knead bread, I
thought - what would Brother Juniper say? Peter Reinhart, also known as Brother Juniper, is a bread baking maven, teacher and prolific author. I worked with him when he was at the California Culinary Academy, (I was a lowly staff person, not a chef mind you!) and I took a demonstration class he gave on poolish, biga and other slow-rise breads. When I only had one child, I had time to mess around with Reinhart's recipes, which were tasty and wonderful but took plenty of planning and attention. Now I have two kids and they keep me busy -too busy to bother with a two- or three-day bread process. (okay, there's grad school too, my other excuse) Well, out of curiousity I googled Brother Juniper and found his weblog: http://peterreinhart.typepad.com/ He has put up the nicest comment about the new bread phenomenon. He is a generous man and looks at bread-baking the way a great research scientist would - it's all grist for the mill, (so to speak) - he loves the new technique, he's delighted about the buzz, and he's going to test some variations to see if it's worth adding a chapter to his latest book in progress. When my semester ends in ten days, I'm going to try the no-knead bread with the kids. And I may bake a Brother Juniper slow-rise bread too, for good measure. |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
On 22 Nov 2006 20:58:47 -0800, "Leila"
> wrote: >He has put up the nicest comment about the new bread phenomenon. Howdy, There is nothing "new" about these no-knead techniques. We've been commenting about them here for years, and I suspect that folks have baked this way for a few thousand years before that. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
Kenneth wrote:
> On 22 Nov 2006 20:58:47 -0800, "Leila" > > wrote: > > >> He has put up the nicest comment about the new bread phenomenon. > > > There is nothing "new" about these no-knead techniques. > There is a difference between a phenomenon and a technique. Over the past week or two, every bread forum I've been in has been inundated with many, many posts about the technique. The level of interest is the phenomenon. I think that a number of people who have never baked have been emboldened to do so. That's also a phenomenon. Yup, we've been talking about no-knead techniques for years around here. But it never got quite the buzz of the NYT article. Mike |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 07:30:31 -0700, Mike Avery
> wrote: >> >>> He has put up the nicest comment about the new bread phenomenon. >> >> >> There is nothing "new" about these no-knead techniques. >> >There is a difference between a phenomenon and a technique. Hi Mike, Thanks for clarifying Leila's intent... <VBG> All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
Kenneth wrote: > > We've been commenting about them here for years, and I > suspect that folks have baked this way for a few thousand > years before that. > DITTO....indeed bakers in some developing countries (in the past ) indeed did it that way, the dough baked inside a clay pot .......but raised with crude sourdoughs starter... It just don't look appetizing to eat though.... |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
chembake wrote:
> Kenneth wrote: > >> We've been commenting about them here for years, and I >> suspect that folks have baked this way for a few thousand >> years before that. >> > > DITTO....indeed bakers in some developing countries (in the past ) > indeed did it that way, the dough baked inside a clay pot .......but > raised with crude sourdoughs starter... > It just don't look appetizing to eat though.... This may not be strictly "bread"-related but when I was in the RAF I was stationed at a Middle East airfield in 1963-64. One of the typical sights in the local market was a young lad with a crate of tinned, condensed milk; a sack of flour; a smaller sack of salt; and a small, mud-brick built, gas-fired oven. He sat cross-legged, mixed a small amount of flour, milk and salt (no yeast), moulded it briefly into a flattish, circular shape with his bare hands before opening the oven door, casually tossing the dough into the oven and closing the oven door. By the time he had mixed the next lot of dough the dough in the oven was ready to bring out and add to the pile of cooked "loaves". -- Bruce Fletcher Stronsay, Orkney <www.stronsay.co.uk/claremont> (Remove teeth to reply) "Some days you are the pigeon. Some days you are the statue" |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
In article .com>,
"Leila" > wrote: > As soon as I read about that NY Times/Jim Lahey no-knead bread, I > thought - what would Brother Juniper say? Peter Reinhart, also known as > Brother Juniper, is a bread baking maven, teacher and prolific author. > I worked with him when he was at the California Culinary Academy, (I > was a lowly staff person, not a chef mind you!) and I took a > demonstration class he gave on poolish, biga and other slow-rise > breads. > > When I only had one child, I had time to mess around with Reinhart's > recipes, which were tasty and wonderful but took plenty of planning and > attention. Now I have two kids and they keep me busy -too busy to > bother with a two- or three-day bread process. (okay, there's grad > school too, my other excuse) > > Well, out of curiousity I googled Brother Juniper and found his weblog: > > http://peterreinhart.typepad.com/ > > He has put up the nicest comment about the new bread phenomenon. He is > a generous man and looks at bread-baking the way a great research > scientist would - it's all grist for the mill, (so to speak) - he loves > the new technique, he's delighted about the buzz, and he's going to > test some variations to see if it's worth adding a chapter to his > latest book in progress. > > When my semester ends in ten days, I'm going to try the no-knead bread > with the kids. And I may bake a Brother Juniper slow-rise bread too, > for good measure. Iteration 2.0 is currently in its final rise, and the Le Creuset pot is heating in the oven. Even though I used the same amount of water this go-round, the dough was less slack. (Surprising, given the humidity hereabouts.) It was much easier to shape today. My next-door-neighbor is intrigued by the method and requested a loaf for today's cooperative feast, along with some dinner rolls. Said rolls came out of the oven an hour ago. So what are you pursuing in grad school??? Cindy -- C.J. Fuller Delete the obvious to email me |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
Mike Avery wrote: .... > Yup, we've been talking about no-knead techniques for years around > here. But it never got quite the buzz of the NYT article. > > Mike That'll be The Emperor's New Cothes effect. Jim |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
Kenneth wrote: > On 22 Nov 2006 20:58:47 -0800, "Leila" > > wrote: > > >He has put up the nicest comment about the new bread phenomenon. > > Howdy, > > There is nothing "new" about these no-knead techniques. > > We've been commenting about them here for years, and I > suspect that folks have baked this way for a few thousand > years before that. indeed the no-knead method seems to fit very well with the setup at ancient egyptian bakeries discovered around the pyramids - and famously recreated by Ed Wood http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/AR/93-94/93-94_Giza.html laters andy forbes > All the best, > -- > Kenneth > > If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
atty wrote: ....> > indeed the no-knead method seems to fit very well with the setup at > ancient egyptian bakeries discovered around the pyramids - and famously > recreated by Ed Wood > > http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/AR/93-94/93-94_Giza.html > > laters > andy forbes Except there's paintings and statues of Egyptians kneading bread. Let's not get too hasty. After all, it really doesn't matter how long it's been going on. I'm sure anyone that had an interruption or phone call in the middle of kneading would realise, as I did, that you really don't need to knead so much if you just take a good break in the middle. : -) The first good book that I got said to take a couple of breaks in the 20 minute knead that it suggested, well, me being young and fit, at the time, didn't think I needed a break. I didn't realise the break wasn't for me. lol. Jim |
Peter Reinhart On No-Knead Bread
"TG" > wrote in message oups.com... > > atty wrote: > ...> >> indeed the no-knead method seems to fit very well with the setup at >> ancient egyptian bakeries discovered around the pyramids - and famously >> recreated by Ed Wood >> >> http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/AR/93-94/93-94_Giza.html >> >> laters >> andy forbes > > Except there's paintings and statues of Egyptians kneading bread. Movies? > :-) Mary |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
TG wrote: > atty wrote: > ...> > > indeed the no-knead method seems to fit very well with the setup at > > ancient egyptian bakeries discovered around the pyramids - and famously > > recreated by Ed Wood > > > > http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/AR/93-94/93-94_Giza.html > > > > laters > > andy forbes > > Except there's paintings and statues of Egyptians kneading bread. I think you are probably right in particular http://www.insecula.com/us/oeuvre/ph...000027177.html the two women kneeling at the back do indeed look to be kneading though alternately can be interpreted as grinding as indeed is attributed at http://www.insecula.com/us/oeuvre/O0004972.html "In the bakkery, men crush the grain with pestles, after which it is ground to flour by two women. Men mix dough in tall tubs, and it is shaped into loaves and cakes by others. The four black ovens are each tended by a man with a poker." certainly clearly a man is making up into small loaves whcih probably NYT dough is too wet for. (interesting that brewery and bakery are portrayed as neighbours so we can assume this bakery was using the same yeast culture or barm? as the brewery) however why imagine that anceint Egyptians only had one method of baking? Ed Wood's Giza experiment involved recreating bakery shops found on the plain of Giza around the Pyramids. These were both Old Kingdom sites and much bigger than the bakery shop illustrated by the model above. I quote from the report " Our ancient bakeries were composed of low stone rubble and Nile clay walls with a marl floor in rooms measuring about five and a quarter meters (north to south) by two and a half meters (east to west). In both rooms we found a cache of bell-shaped ceramic pots, long recognized as bread molds in Egyptian archaeology and labeled with the name bedja in the Old Kingdom tomb scenes. The ancient Egyptians began to use bread molds of this type just about the time that the pharaonic state emerged around 2900 b.c. They continued to use them until near the end of the Old Kingdom, about 2200 b.c. While some have suggested that pot-baked bread was for special occasions - festivals, temple offerings, etc. - the Old Kingdom bread mold has been found as a major component of ceramic corpora in sites of all kinds from Egypt's traditional southern border at Elephantine to First Dynasty outposts in southern Palestine. Egyptians in many different settings desired and produced their pot baked bread. Old Kingdom tomb scenes show the pots placed rim to rim as a kind of portable oven for baking in open pits. Our bedja pots were unusually large, as much as thirty-five centimeters in diameter and up to thirty-five centimeters in depth. Put together in the manner of the tomb scenes they would create an interior space seventy centimeters in height. If the dough would swell to fill the entire space, this would produce a huge loaf of bread. Indeed, certain tombs scenes show offering bearers carrying huge conical bread loaves of the shape that would be produced by our pots. As I reported previously, we seem to have found all the essential tools required for the production processes depicted by Old Kingdom scenes and figurines: Both bakeries originally had three large ceramic vats in the northwestern corner, presumably for mixing dough. We further presume that a fireplace in the form of an open platform in the opposite southeastern corner was for stack heating the pots, a preliminary step often illustrated in figurines and wall art. Rows of holes at the bottom of a shallow trench along the eastern wall must have been for holding the dough-filled pots that were covered by another pot placed upside down. Hot coals and embers in the trench provided the heat that baked the bread." http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/PROJ/GIZ/N...ll92_fig8.html most siginficantly here there deosn't appear to me to be any suitably sized work surface to knead or rest the quantity of bread this site obviously produced (this is just one chamber which is duplicated over a 300 metre site) a bread mould pot http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/PROJ/GIZ/N...ll92_fig7.html tell me this doesn't pretty closely match the NYT no knead method? (at least to the point where anceient egyptians bake by making a pyrmamid of these twinned pots in a pit and setting a bonfire around this) Looks like possibly twin pot mould arrangement was used for both proofing and baking. http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/PROJ/GIZ/N...ll92_fig9.html here you can see that the dough is apparently so wet that it is being poured from smaller pots into the moulds as a liquid, almost more of a batter!? what is actually more intersting to me is how much the move away from this style of wet dough to a stiffer dough was dictated by the move away in Europe from communal baking (as practised both in France and England) where indivdual households make their own dough and then bake in a communal oven to professional baking and then mechanization. Pre mechanization in European bakeris there is much mention of dough being made in large troughs and some indication of being mixed by a paddle, possibly with its bottom attached to the bottom of trough again indicating a very wet dough. Certainly a stiffer dough in troughs of the size portrayed in various illustrations at http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online...fova1/hfr4.htm would be impossible to imagine one man kneading or even mixing properly in the modern sense. However the wetter the dough probably the more difficult to move around and divide into equal portion loaves once out of dough trough. Maybe simply mechanization enabled the introduction of stiffer doughs that could at once be kneaded mecahnically (speeding up proofing) and were then more convenient for subsquent handling in a bakeshop . Of course one also has to factor in the introduction, particularly in the UK of harder wheats from the US, Canada and Australia. laters andy forbes |
no knead = ancient egyptian? and pre mechanization
there is much intersting information on pre-mecahnical prfesional
baking, though not empirical in chapter "COMPARATIVE DATA: THE BAKING PROCESS DURING THE 1840's" of http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online...fova1/hfrt.htm chapter here http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online...fova1/hfr2.htm about half way down page paragraph heading "Setting the sponge" and then next "Making the dough" at end of "Setting the Sponge" reads as follows quote "After the "sponge" had finished rising and started to fall it was, according to some formulas, ready for making dough. Other recipes called for the stirring in of more warm water or "liquor" (water mixed with certain ingredients) at this time and letting the "sponge" rise one or more additional times, adding more "liqour" with each stirring. Depending upon the amount of water added for each of these "sponges" in relation to the whole quantity used in the dough, they were called "quarter," "half," or "whole" sponges." so clearly here we have some bakers with a very wet dough (a sponge) and some who then knead in more flour - though again its hard to imagine the degree of kneading that coudl subsquenlty be done mechnically incidentally there is much intersting info higher in the page re wood fired oven management that augments simular information for those with a wood fired oven like myself from Alan Scott and other modern wood fired oven experts yours andy forbes |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
atty wrote: ...(interesting that brewery and bakery are > portrayed as neighbours so we can assume this bakery was using the same > yeast culture or barm? as the brewery) > ..> laters > andy forbes Hi Andy, There has been recent discoveries of large mixing machines driven by donkeys made by the Romans. Anyway that aside. We know the Egyptians made bread and must have mixed it in some way, 'kneading' is really a semantic discussion. On that semantic topic. Barm is a froth on fermenting malt liquor. The word isn't synonymous with yeast culture. But now in the UK it is used, though not understood by most, as the ferment that has mashed hops to keep the leaven sweet. Here in the UK there isn't quite the same desire for sour breads. See Barm. Wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barm Jim |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
TG wrote: > > Barm is a froth on fermenting malt liquor. The word isn't synonymous > with yeast culture. But now in the UK it is used, though not understood > by most, as the ferment that has mashed hops to keep the leaven sweet. > Here in the UK there isn't quite the same desire for sour breads. See > Barm. Wikipedia. Did you mean mashed barley? |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
On 25 Nov 2006 08:58:20 -0800, "TG" >
wrote: >Barm is a froth on fermenting malt liquor. The word isn't synonymous >with yeast culture. Howdy, On the US side of the pond, "barm" is defined as the "yeasty froth" that forms on the surface of beer and similar beverages as they ferment. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
> Barm is a froth on fermenting malt liquor. The word isn't synonymous > with yeast culture. But now in the UK it is used, though not understood > by most, as the ferment that has mashed hops to keep the leaven sweet. > Here in the UK there isn't quite the same desire for sour breads. See > Barm. Wikipedia. I was putting the word 'barm' in my mail in the sense used by Elizabeth David in English Yeast Bakery to describe the practice in early industrial towns and cities of the UK of continuing to bake in the indivdual home but rather than keep one's own sourdough culture as traditionally on a farm, go to the local berwery to get fresh yeast culture - effectively a bi-product of brewing -though I don't know what stage in brewing it was produced. how much this was also practice of european mediaval towns prior to industrailzation isn't clear, in any case the point is that from the egyptian model, unless its just shortcut by the model maker, its clear the yeast culture used by the baker hasn't diverged from that of the brewer (it would have been impossible to keep seperate in such close vicinity) I am not certain at what date brewers started to become aware of and be able to manipluate different yeast strains to be able to produce different styles of beer (lager, bitter etc) but its cerainly ahead of the official scientific description of yeast by Louise Pasteur, and remains today way ahead of the identification of different strains of yeast suitable for baking. Somehow I have held the opinion for a while that 'baker's yeast' is in fact a spin off discovery from 19th Century brewing industry of a yeast dedicated solely to producing CO2 at the expense of anythign else, and not a yeast strain originated in baking. Is this correct? anyone know? laters andy forbes |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
atty wrote:
> I was putting the word 'barm' in my mail in the sense used by > Elizabeth David in English Yeast Bakery to describe the practice in > early industrial towns and cities of the UK of continuing to bake in > the indivdual home but rather than keep one's own sourdough culture as > traditionally on a farm, go to the local berwery to get fresh yeast > culture - effectively a bi-product of brewing -though I don't know what > stage in brewing it was produced. > Yeast isn't a byproduct of brewing any more than it is a byproduct of baking. A hopped diluted malt syrup, called a wort, has yeast added to it. The yeast begin to multiply quickly, and soon after that the wort begins to bubble. At that point, a foam forms on top of the beer. Once the beer has begun active fermentation, the concentration of yeast is probably high enough for baking purposes. British beers, or ales, use a top fermenting yeast so the concentration of yeast at the surface is quite high. It remains high for several days, after which the yeast dies from the alcohol it has produced and begins to fall to the bottom of the vat. (That is a somewhat simplified version.) At that point, the beer is less useful as a source of barm. > how much this was also practice of european mediaval towns prior to > industrailzation isn't clear, From everything I've read and seen, barm is pretty much a British thing. Even in Britain, sourdough was more common. Classic British beers are unhopped, which would make them more attractive to the baker. German beers started using hops around 739, while British beers remained unhopped until the 16th century. The addition of hops was not universally welcomed. > its clear the yeast culture used by the baker hasn't diverged from that of the > brewer (it would have been impossible to keep seperate in such close > vicinity) > Its not that clear to me. Were bakeries and breweries close? And what's close? How much yeast escapes the fermenting beer? Or the rising bread? I am inclined to think that not much would escape the bread. Moreover, the lactobacillus in sourdough would adversely affect the beer, so it seems unlikely that the brewers - or their patrons - would long allow that to continue. > I am not certain at what date brewers started to become aware of and be > able to manipluate different yeast strains to be able to produce > different styles of beer (lager, bitter etc) but its cerainly ahead of > the official scientific description of yeast by Louise Pasteur, and > remains today way ahead of the identification of different strains of > yeast suitable for baking. > > Lager beer is supposed to have started around 1820 to 1830. The commercial yeast industry began in Austria around 1846 according to the Lesaffre web page. Pasteur explained how yeast worked around 1859. As to brewers yeast being used for baking, lager yeasts tend to work too slowly to be useful. I tried using lager yeast years and years ago... and the dough hadn't moved three days later. Ale yeast is workable. > Somehow I have held the opinion for a while that 'baker's yeast' is in > fact a spin off discovery from 19th Century brewing industry of a yeast > dedicated solely to producing CO2 at the expense of anythign else, and > not a yeast strain originated in baking. Is this correct? anyone know? > While yeast does not confer the same, or as intense a, taste as sourdough, I wouldn't go so far as to say that the yeast is selected to produce carbon dioxide at the expense of everything else. Bakers yeast does impart tastes that many people like, and professional bakers select the yeast they will use on the basis of taste as much as anything else. I'm also not sure how much fermentation can be played with to produce more co2 or less alcohol. I doubt there is much wiggle room there. Some differences... bakers yeast has a very low tolerance for alcohol, it works very quickly, and it does not settle out well when in solution. Brewers yeasts, including wine yeasts, have higher alcohol tolerance, work more slowly, and do settle out well leaving the brew clear. Bakers and brewers yeasts are carefully selected for their purposes, and don't work very well in the other's capacity. Mike -- ....The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com part time baker ICQ 16241692 networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 wordsmith |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
Mike, thanks for all the useful info re brewing and baking yeasts. I do
have a micro-brewery mate in Spain who is convinced his yeasts are superior for all purposes including baking but never took him up on his offer to try out. I do find it a peculiar and a bit kind of sad that a quick search on the internet reveals many specific strains for brewing but other than Ed Woods site only about two commercially available strains for baking > > its clear the yeast culture used by the baker hasn't diverged from that of the > > brewer (it would have been impossible to keep seperate in such close > > vicinity) > > > Its not that clear to me. Were bakeries and breweries close? the discussion arose from looking at this Ancient Egytian model http://www.insecula.com/us/oeuvre/ph...000027175.html here's another overhead shot I think of same model http://www.deutsches-museum.de/en/ex...lture/brewing/ the bakery is identified as the room at the bottom here laters andy forbes |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
atty wrote:
> I do find it a peculiar and a bit kind of sad that a quick search on > the internet reveals many specific strains for brewing but other than > Ed Woods site only about two commercially available strains for baking > Sourdough is a different critter than yeast. However, Dr. Wood's site has a good number of cultures. King Arthur offers at least two sourdough starters, Mr. Baker offers a culture, as does Northwestern. Gold Rush offers a culture (that I can not recommend) and I have seen a few others here and there. One of the best remains the free 1847 Oregon Trail starter available at no cost from the Friends of Carl web site. As to yeast, Fleischmann and Red Star have yeasts. SAF and Lesaffre have a number of strains. SAF has 3 strains of instant yeast and a wide variety of fresh and liquid yeasts for the trade. I suspect that the key is that the differences in different strains of brewing yeasts are more pronounced than the differences in bakers yeasts, and that brewers are more willing to explore the differences - and pay for them. One other factor that can't be overstated is that the life cycle of bakers yeast is much shorter than that of brewers yeast. Even a fast ale will brew for 3 to 5 days. A lager will ferment for weeks to months. A wine kit will ferment for about 2 weeks, while other wines will ferment for very long periods of time. These longer fermentation times give the differences between the yeasts more time to manifest > > >> Its not that clear to me. Were bakeries and breweries close? >> > > the discussion arose from looking at this Ancient Egytian model > > http://www.insecula.com/us/oeuvre/ph...000027175.html > > here's another overhead shot I think of same model > http://www.deutsches-museum.de/en/ex...lture/brewing/ > > the bakery is identified as the room at the bottom here > Interesting. The unasked, and unanswered, question would relate to the quality of the beer and bread. Was the beer and bread made for the nobility, or just to keep the slaves fed and reasonably content? Mike -- ....The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com part time baker ICQ 16241692 networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 wordsmith |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
> Interesting. The unasked, and unanswered, question would relate to the > quality of the beer and bread. Was the beer and bread made for the > nobility, or just to keep the slaves fed and reasonably content? again thanks for the brewing yeast info - I get your point about brewing yeasts take longer therefore different yeasts more likely to get identified. In terms of anceint practice I think a lot rests on whether one thinks they kept and cultivated specific yeast cultures or simply relied on products and processes attracting different truly 'wild' yeasts. A side issue that I have often wondered about is whether certain woods when used to make baking utensils may have property of storing cultures, in the instance of the medieval dough/kneading troughs for example. A swedish sourdough baking friend of mine has told me the traditonal method there to store a culture is to dip a birch twig/branch in one's dough or poolish - and then innoculate subsquent batch by stirring it with this branch. I have seen several references here http://ancienthistory.about.com/libr...y/aa070897.htm and elsewhere that some Ancient egyptian and sumerian beer was actually made from mashed up bread, whether baked especially for the purpose of brewing or not is unclear. There is also much debate which came top as the product of early serriculture development, bread or beer I did get the job of baking ancient Egyptian bread for the a film for the British museum once http://tam.southspace.org.uk/patrick...ish% 20Museum my most expensive bread ever, £50 for two small loaves! Unfortunately they arrived on set too late and appear to have been substituted with pitta bread form the local kebab shop. laters andy f > Mike > > -- > ...The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating > system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... > > Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com > part time baker ICQ 16241692 > networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 > wordsmith |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
> I did get the job of baking ancient Egyptian bread for the a film for > the British museum once > > http://tam.southspace.org.uk/patrick...ish% 20Museum > > my most expensive bread ever, £50 for two small loaves! Unfortunately > they arrived on set too late and appear to have been substituted with > pitta bread form the local kebab shop. actually looking at http://tam.southspace.org.uk/patrick/images/vm/vm11.jpg mayeb this is my bread on set (sorry for my exageration of its price) they were meant to be recreation of this fossilised ancient egyptian loaf http://tam.southspace.org.uk/patrick/images/vm/vm11.jpg I used Doves Farm Spelt - and they didn't taste very interesting and a bit burnt laters andy > laters > andy f > > > Mike > > > > -- > > ...The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating > > system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... > > > > Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com > > part time baker ICQ 16241692 > > networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 > > wordsmith |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
> they were meant to be recreation of this fossilised ancient egyptian > loaf http://tam.southspace.org.uk/patrick/images/vm/vm11.jpg sorry, meant this one http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/breads5.jpg from http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/bread.htm laters andy f > I used Doves Farm Spelt - and they didn't taste very interesting and a > bit burnt > > laters > andy > > > laters > > andy f > > > > > Mike > > > > > > -- > > > ...The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating > > > system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... > > > > > > Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com > > > part time baker ICQ 16241692 > > > networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 > > > wordsmith |
japanese ancient egyptian bread beer
> and elsewhere that some Ancient egyptian and sumerian beer was actually > made from mashed up bread, whether baked especially for the purpose of > brewing or not is unclear. from the makers of Kirin beer http://www.kirin.co.jp/english/r_d/egypt/recipe.html laters atty |
no knead / barm?
Will wrote: > TG wrote: > > > > Barm is a froth on fermenting malt liquor. The word isn't synonymous > > with yeast culture. But now in the UK it is used, though not understood > > by most, as the ferment that has mashed hops to keep the leaven sweet. > > Here in the UK there isn't quite the same desire for sour breads. See > > Barm. Wikipedia. > > Did you mean mashed barley? Hi Will, No, I did mean hops, sorry Will, I'm no brewer, perhaps I should have said mashed grain with the addition of hops. This kind of true barm 'cake' or bread isn't easy to find these days. I'm lucky in that my dad sold hundreds of them a day so it was commercially viable to make proper ones. I just want to underline here that until Pasteur the only brewing medium was a naturally 'caught' variety. Some beer is still made this way but not easy to find. Jim |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
Kenneth wrote: > On 25 Nov 2006 08:58:20 -0800, "TG" > > wrote: > > >Barm is a froth on fermenting malt liquor. . > > Howdy, > > On the US side of the pond, "barm" is defined as the "yeasty > froth" that forms on the surface of beer and similar > beverages as they ferment. > > All the best, > -- > Kenneth Hi Kenneth : -) is that not the same thing? Jim |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
atty wrote:
> A side issue that I have often wondered about is whether certain woods > when used to make baking utensils may have property of storing > cultures, in the instance of the medieval dough/kneading troughs for > example. A swedish sourdough baking friend of mine has told me the > traditonal method there to store a culture is to dip a birch > twig/branch in one's dough or poolish - and then innoculate subsquent > batch by stirring it with this branch. > I think it was in "The Village Baker" that the author mentioned an older woman of eastern European extraction who wanted to buy some flour from him. If memory serves, he gave it to her, and she gave him a loaf of her sourdough bread and showed him how she made it. She used the same kneading board every time, and it seems the culture was in the wood. I have to wonder how well she cleaned her kneading board with the excruciating care the health department would have wanted..... and was it the board or the residue on the board that propagated the culture. Mike -- ....The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com part time baker ICQ 16241692 networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 wordsmith |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
"Mike Avery" > wrote in message > > ... Classic British beers are unhopped, which would make them more > attractive to the baker. German beers started using hops around 739, > while British beers remained unhopped until the 16th century. Not so, hops were used in English beer in 1400. Before then ale was made, which contained no hops. Until the C16th hops were imported from the Low Countries. Mary |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
Mary Fisher wrote:
> "Mike Avery" > wrote in message > >> ... Classic British beers are unhopped, which would make them more >> attractive to the baker. German beers started using hops around 739, >> while British beers remained unhopped until the 16th century. >> > > Not so, hops were used in English beer in 1400. Before then ale was made, > which contained no hops. Until the C16th hops were imported from the Low > Countries. > There seems to be some debate over the matter. The dates I used were from Wikipedia, though other sources agree with yours. Originally, the distinction between ale and beer was the absence or presence of hops. That distinction has faded as there are ales that have hops, and some beers (notably German Alt biers) that do not. The key distinction at this point seems to be that Ales are made with a top fermenting yeast, while beers are made with bottom fermenting yeast. Another distinction - most beers are lagered, or stored, to improve their taste, while most ales are not. Mike -- ....The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com part time baker ICQ 16241692 networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 wordsmith |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
Incidentally currently reading 'Crsut and Crumb' by Peter Reinhart
here he actually uses the word 'barm' throughout the book to describe a style of quite wet acidic starter (compared to a levian) which he acknowledges as being derived from Elizabeth David's use of the word. However whereas Elizabeth David clearly uses the word as a yeast culture taken from 'high yeast' in a beer brew and then used for baking, Reinhart has dropped any direct connection to brewing. Reinahart also asserts there are just two main baking strains of yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae (commercial Baker's Yeast) and Saccharomyces exiguus. Quote "S. exiguus isa wild yeast that lives on plants, fruits and grains. It is the whilte bloom on grapes, plums and other fruit, and it also lives on the outside of wheat berries. S. exiguus is slower acting and not as aggressive as the commercially produced cerevisiae" I am confused by this particularly as elsewehere in the book he acknowledges Ed Wood as a collector of 'strains of yeast', not much good if there are only two. Maybe he is simply misusing the term 'strain' - can one have strains of strains? surely not (scietifically speaking) quote from Ed Wood's website for instance re his Original San Fransisco Sourdough culture "The wild yeast was originally classified as a strain of Saccharomyces exiguus, called Torulopsis holmii. It has been reclassified as Candida milleri and again reclassified as Candida humilis. " glad of any enlightenment also interested in any commentary from anybody as to the siginficance of the haploid or mating method of reproduction of yeast (as opposed to sporation and budding) in relation to sourdough baking - various baking books don't really mention as it was very poorly understood sceintifically if at all till recently (as I understand it) http://www.phys.ksu.edu/gene/a2f3.html yours andy Forbes |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
> I am confused by this particularly as elsewhere in the book he > acknowledges Ed Wood as a collector of 'strains of yeast', not much > good if there are only two. Maybe he is simply misusing the term > 'strain' - can one have strains of strains? surely not (scientifically > speaking) > seem to have answered my own question with a bit more research maybe misquoted Reinhart somewhat, he does however refer to "two main yeasts" for baking. 'Strains' are indeed scientifically speaking variations of a particular yeast (species) however this interesting paper http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/art...9785&tools=bot does make it clear that from various San Fransisco bakeries' 'mother sponges' the researchers identified additional yeast species as well as four strains of S. exiguus "The growth requirements of several yeasts isolated from San Francisco sour dough mother sponges were compared with those of bakers' yeast. The sour dough yeasts studied were one strain of Saccharomyces uvarum, one strain of S. inusitatus, and four strains of S. exiguus. S. inusitatus was the only yeast found to have an amino acid requirement, namely, methionine. All of the yeasts had an absolute requirement for pantothenic acid and a partial requirement for biotin. Inositol was stimulatory to all except bakers' yeast. All strains of S. exiguus required niacin and thiamine. Interestingly, S. inusitatus, the only yeast that required methionine, also needed folic acid. For optimal growth of S. exiguus in a molasses medium, supplementation with thiamine was required." what I can't really tell from this paper is whether they are saying one 'mother sponge' had a mixture of yeasts in it or that they found amongst the bakeries at least 6 different San Fransisco Sourdough cultures re. the above research summary pantothenic=vitamin B5 thiamine=vitamin B1 niacin=Vitamin B3 the best source of all these and inositol in bread baking is wheat and other grain bran, particularly for thiamine. Substitution of polished rice for wholegrain rice in Asian diet can result in B1 deficiency and therefore cause the disease beriberi. laters andy forbes |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
Hi Andy,
atty wrote: > Incidentally currently reading 'Crsut and Crumb' by Peter Reinhart > > here he actually uses the word 'barm' throughout the book to describe a > style of quite wet acidic starter (compared to a levian) which he > acknowledges as being derived from Elizabeth David's use of the word. > However whereas Elizabeth David clearly uses the word as a yeast > culture taken from 'high yeast' in a beer brew and then used for > baking, Reinhart has dropped any direct connection to brewing. My understanding from Reinhart, I'll have to check, is that he uses the word as the original English word for leaven. It begs the question if this is the case why we don't still use the word except in South Lancashire for a *particular* type of roll. The Wiki entry on Barm agrees with other entries of the word in other dictionaries as being a scum on top of fermenting liquid. Don't forget here that before Pasteur this still would be a naturally occurring culture. > Reinahart also asserts there are just two main baking strains of yeast, > Saccharomyces cerevisiae (commercial Baker's Yeast) and Saccharomyces > exiguus. > > Quote > > "S. exiguus isa wild yeast that lives on plants, fruits and grains. It > is the whilte bloom on grapes, plums and other fruit, and it also lives > on the outside of wheat berries. S. exiguus is slower acting and not as > aggressive as the commercially produced cerevisiae" > > I am confused by this particularly as elsewehere in the book he > acknowledges Ed Wood as a collector of 'strains of yeast', not much > good if there are only two. Maybe he is simply misusing the term > 'strain' - can one have strains of strains? surely not (scietifically > speaking) You're confusing strain with species. Strain is a general term. In horticulture we never used the word, Genus - species - then sub-species, variants or cultivars. In Biology a strain is a genetic variant or subtype of some organism. So although something could be in the same species or even sub-species it could still be a different strain because it had, say better acid tolerance. > > quote from Ed Wood's website for instance re his Original San Fransisco > Sourdough culture Don't forget that a starter culture is a mixture of different organisms, so although two different cultures could contain essentially the same organisms one might contain and extra variant with better tolerance to some factor. > > "The wild yeast was originally classified as a strain of Saccharomyces > exiguus, called Torulopsis holmii. It has been reclassified as Candida > milleri and again reclassified as Candida humilis. " I think that is just a bad use of that gray word 'strain'. Here we're told that it is now calssified as a different genus altogether. > > glad of any enlightenment Oh, if only I could make you enlightened, I wouldn't stop at just you, : -), if only *I* were. lol > also interested in any commentary from anybody as to the siginficance > of the haploid or mating method of reproduction of yeast (as opposed to > sporation and budding) in relation to sourdough baking - various baking > books don't really mention as it was very poorly understood > sceintifically if at all till recently (as I understand it) Can't help you there Andy but it still won't help you make better bread. : -) > http://www.phys.ksu.edu/gene/a2f3.html > > yours > andy Forbes |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
atty wrote:
> Incidentally currently reading 'Crsut and Crumb' by Peter Reinhart > > ...Reinahart also asserts ... > > ...I am confused by this > > ...glad of any enlightenment > Peter Reinhart is a fine writer and a poet. To date however, his science opinions have been muddled at best. Do not depend on his writings to help you understand the science of microbiology. > also interested in any commentary from anybody as to the siginficance > of the haploid or mating method of reproduction of yeast (as opposed to > sporation and budding) in relation to sourdough baking - various baking > books don't really mention as it was very poorly understood > sceintifically if at all till recently (as I understand it) > > Here, you may just as well read the poets for all the good it will do you. Even real scientists seem to contradict themselves. Bake some bread and don't worry about things that professionals can not explain in a consistent manner to the ordinary folk. That is a sure sign that they are confused as well. Regards, Charles |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
atty wrote:
> Incidentally currently reading 'Crsut and Crumb' by Peter Reinhart > I think "The Bread Builders" by Scott and Wing is much better from the scientific, and baking, point of view, even though it only has one recipe in it. Some food for thought - almost all of which it *TOTALLY* irrelevant for the practical baker. According to Scott and Wing, as well as Dr. Michael Gaenzle (a well known sourdough researcher, formerly with the Bread and Cereal Institute in Germany and now with a university in Canada), there are something like 3 strains of yeast and 5 strains of lactobacillus that can make reasonably stable sourdough cultures. The lactobacillus bacteria produces most of the taste in sourdough breads, and contributes to the rise to some degree. Different authors say as little as 30% to as much as 50%. Without the bacteria, you have a poolish or biga - a yeast based culture. In practice, the bacteria WILL eventually find their way into a yeast culture, which is why yeast bakeries keep making fresh poolish and biga rather than propagating it. The bacteria also produce acidity. Enough acidity to kill most strains of yeast. According to Dr. Wood, about 50 other compounds produced by the bacteria have been identified that inhibit other bacteria. In short, the bacteria produces antibiotics that they are immune to. In the real world,. we don't have pure cultures. If you sent off your culture to a biological lab and ask them, "what's in here?" they will report that one strain of yeast and one strain of bacteria are dominant, but many other strains are present. The "in the real world" comment is because from what I read, most bakers in Germany buy a fresh culture from a biological supply house every week. Delivery is on Friday, they inoculate a large vat of flour and water at 100 to 120% hydration, and then on Sunday they start using their new starter. The starter is a mix of a pure yeast strain and a pure lactobacillus bacteria strain. I don't know of any other country where this is common procedure and attribute it to a German fascination with precision, even if the precision isn't always necessary. (Side note... I am a German, so please don't get your feathers ruffled about what you perceive as anti-German comments.) As long as the feeding conditions are consistent, and reasonably close to optimum, the same bacteria and yeast will remain dominant. If the baker changes how the culture is fed and handled, funny things can happen. Dr. Gaenzle has said that in the end, all cultures he has tested from around the world become about the same as the San Francisco sourdough culture as characterized by Dr. Sugihara in his landmark papers. He has also said that he has cultures that have been in the lab for 50 years without changing. Now then... a quick summary before we continue. It isn't just the yeast that makes sourdough sourdough. It's a symbiosis between any one of 3 or so yeasts and 5 or so bacteria. This suggests that there are something like 15 potentially stable cultures. It isn't clear what the lesser strains in a culture do with regards to providing taste and such, or how much difference sub-strains make. And, to the home baker, that isn't very important. So, what sort of funny things can happen when you don't feed your starter well? In my classes I tell students that a starter is like a child. If you don't feed a child for a while, they get cranky. If you don't feed them for a longer while, they sicken and die. One thing that happens is that different strains of yeast or bacteria can take over. One thing I have had happen twice, and have heard of all too often, is that some strains of bacteria can digest protein. So, if they starches in the starter are exhausted, the protein eating bacteria have a survival advantage and take over the culture. This causes the culture, and bread dough, to become far too slack. If you start aggressively feeding such a culture, it will seem to start behaving correctly again. However, my experience is that the next time you skip a feeding, the protein eating bacteria will come back again. The best bet here is to discard the starter and get a new one. When a starter has a pronounced acetone (or fingernail polish remover) smell, that is a sign you may have a changed culture. On a less serious note, a culture can change it's flavor and rise characteristics, although that can also be due to a change in the flour it is fed. For a practical baker, my suggestions are simpler. As long as your starter is at room temperature, feed your starter no less than twice a day. Feed your starter enough to double its size with each feeding. Discard some of the starter so you don't wind up with vast quantities of starter. Feed your starter 1 part of water to 1 part of flour by weight or 2 parts of water to 3 parts of water by volume. When you aren't baking regularly, refrigerate your starter. Put your starter in the refrigerator immediately after you feed it. When you revive your refrigerated starter, make sure you give it at least 3 good feedings before you use it. Hope that helps, Mike -- ....The irony is that Bill Gates claims to be making a stable operating system and Linus Torvalds claims to be trying to take over the world... Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com part time baker ICQ 16241692 networking guru AIM, yahoo and skype mavery81230 wordsmith |
Barm & Reinhart
> I can't find the reference, but either in his blog or the recipe tester > materials he's sent out for his forthcoming whole-grains book, Peter has > stopped using the word barm, explaining that he's doing so because he > misunderstood the original meaning of the word. fair enough, he attributes his use in Crust and Crumb most immediately to an English microbiologist friend of his Monica Spiller quote "and Monica felt it her British duty to review the good name". Incidentally though Reinhart probably rightly rates Elizabeth David's English Yeast Bakery book highly in promulgating what he describes as the 'Bread Revolution" and great as the book is on many accounts, David appears ignorant of sourdough bakery (in the sense of keeping a culture etc etc) making only a few small passing mentions and quoting re "American sourdough" recipe "I find the whole process rather unrewarding". laters atty > I don't believe you'll see the word "barm" in his next book. He's used it in > the past to mean "mother starter." > -- > Jeff Miller |
no knead = ancient egyptian? + knowledge?
hi TG
> > also interested in any commentary from anybody as to the siginficance > > of the haploid or mating method of reproduction of yeast (as opposed to > > sporation and budding) in relation to sourdough baking - various baking > > books don't really mention as it was very poorly understood > > sceintifically if at all till recently (as I understand it) > > Can't help you there Andy but it still won't help you make better > bread. : -) clearly if you know that scientifically most of the yeasts present in San Fransisco Sourdough cultures need thiamine, then it suggests, as would be case in France with Type 75 flour for 'rustic style soudough' its good to use flour with at least some bran remaining on haploid or mating reproduction of yeast > > http://www.phys.ksu.edu/gene/a2f3.html as you can see in the diagram quoted above two spores of opposite sex need to meet (and find energy source) in order to progress to the budding/exponential mode of yeast reproduction. If one is interested in trying to re-capture yeasts from locations where baking happened in past times, as I am from this Catalan oven 2nd gallery here http://www.myplot.org/oven/, as Ed Wood speculates whether he managed to do on the Giza plain, then understanding this yeast phase seems a good idea. Can yeast species cross breed at all in this haploid phase, or only sex between strains of one yeast, or only between one strain? micro movement, particularly in this haploid phase of reproduction, with spores manoveuring or at least revolving some internal structures into position for sex is being increasingly observed by researchers. Is it possible that this is critical in the No Knead method? I saw someone here questioning how on earth gluten would get aligned and developed without kneading and this just might be part of explanation. additionally if you check this paper and other similar recent research http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/art...medid=12429834 you will see that yeast colonies can send signals to each other inhibiting growth in the direction of each other. Can this be one clue to the increase in variety of bubble size in the various no knead methods? Maybe the lack of kneading plus extreme wetness plus the small quantity of original inoculation used and long fermentation would suggest colonies can get going in a way that thoroughly dispersed by kneading, stiffer and more yeast saturated doughs don't do. Maybe particularly big bubbles are particularly big colonies that have seen off with these signals competing adjacent colonies so you see maybe new scientific understanding has some role in making better bread laters atty |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
hi mike
thanks for another informative mail > attribute it to a German fascination with precision, even if the > precision isn't always necessary. (Side note... I am a German, so > please don't get your feathers ruffled about what you perceive as > anti-German comments.) I think Joe Ortiz in The Village Baker talks of German bakers building up dough batches from thumb sized piece of saved dough over several days - I certainly had an enormous loaf from the best baker in Linz Austria http://www.baeckerei-brandl.at recently which I then took to France and fed 6 people with for over a fortnight when it was still good for toast at the very least - whether as a result of such methods I don't know - I am no great practitioner of rye or rye mix baking. I checked today in the FAQ and found this http://www.nyx.net/~dgreenw/whatisth...logyofsan.html which lists the 'zoo' of yeasts and lactobacilli identified in a German sourdough/rye culture (Certainly I never add rye to my mother starter unless I want to change its behavior radically - at one stage I used to keep two, a rye fed and a non-rye fed starter). do you believe yeast strains of yeast can be captured from spores hanging around locations where baking previously took place? One doctor friend of mine suggested if I could find a neolithic baking site it should be possible to recreate their baking culture and that he thought any resulting yeast would be a very valuable (literally as in £ and $) scientific discovery. yours atty |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
On November 28, 2006, Mike Avery wrote:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.f...f658299aa26448 The last paragraph in the above appears to contain a typo: >...Feed your starter 1 part of water to 1 part of flour by weight >or 2 parts of water to 3 parts of water by volume.... I believe that Mike meant 2 parts water to 3 parts flour by volume... Ray |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
atty wrote: > do you believe yeast strains of yeast can be captured from spores > hanging around locations where baking previously took place? One doctor > friend of mine suggested if I could find a neolithic baking site it > should be possible to recreate their baking culture and that he thought > any resulting yeast would be a very valuable (literally as in £ and $) > scientific discovery. > > yours > atty Hi Andy, isn' t that whay Ed Wood did? I just wrote a really great : -) post to you on the other topic, damn thing error'd when I was previewing it. I'll try to write again later. Note to self, copy all before going to next page. Jim |
no knead = ancient egyptian?
TG wrote: > atty wrote: > > > do you believe yeast strains of yeast can be captured from spores > > hanging around locations where baking previously took place? One doctor > > friend of mine suggested if I could find a neolithic baking site it > > should be possible to recreate their baking culture and that he thought > > any resulting yeast would be a very valuable (literally as in £ and $) > > scientific discovery. > > > > yours > > atty > > Hi Andy, > > isn' t that whay Ed Wood did? he put his culture trap on the balcony of his hotel, which if you know the hotel in question is several kilometres from the site he was at - rather hit and miss at best. My doc was thinking of something a bit closer to where dough would have been made up. I thought I knew a deserted neolithic hilltop compound above the catalan oven I referred to elsewhere. However when I revisited recently my memory had considerably embroidered its extent, turned out to be little more than an overnight animal pen and/or a Carlist war lookout post. laters atty > I just wrote a really great : -) post to you on the other topic, damn > thing error'd when I was previewing it. I'll try to write again later. > Note to self, copy all before going to next page. > > Jim |
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