Here's an updated travel section on the Rhone Valley. Thanks to all for
your suggestions. Keep 'em coming.

p.s. Emery, I'm still searching for a better way to describe the
boundaries of the S. Rhone.

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3k. The Rhone Valley?
The Rhone Valley is a long stretch alongside the Rhone River, from
immediately south of Lyon to just north of the Mediterranean Sea. This
vast stretch of wine country is typically subdivided into two regions:
the Northern Rhone, running from Vienne in the North to Valence and
producing mostly red wines made from Syrah and white wines made from
either Viognier or Marsanne; and the Southern Rhone, taking in an area
extending ca. 12 mi to the north and south of Orange, and featuring both
red and white wines made from a complex mixture of grapes (up to 13 for
the red wines) but most famous for its Grenache. Most winemakers in
this region are also farmers, so don't expect tasting rooms staffed with
employees: usually, it's the winemaker or their family pouring your
wines. For that reason, it's a good idea to call ahead of time for an
appointment.

Wineries:

Northern Rhone

Thierry Allemand (Cornas) - A superstar making supple Syrah from Cornas
Chapoutier (Tain) - Large biodynamic winery with fabulous Hermitage and
many other offerings; no appointments needed he they have a
California-like tasting room
J-L Chave (Mauves) - Finest Hermitage and very good St. Joseph,
exciting, ripe wines with a non-interventionist approach
Pierre Cousodon (Mauves) - Very good St Joseph producer, and a friendly
visit. Family operation
Yves Cuilleron (Chavanay) – Great Condrieu, improving Cote-Rotie
Mathilde & Yves Gangloff (Condrieu) - Great Condrieu and Cote-Rotie
Pierre Gaillard (Malleval) - Condrieu, Cote-Rotie and St. Joseph, all good
Alain Graillot (Pont de L’Isere) - Best value in Crozes-Hermitage
Jamet (Ampuis) - Fantastic Cote-Rotie from the Jamet brothers
Marcel Juge (Cornas) - Traditional Cornas from an old master
Pierre Lionnet (Cornas) - Cosy little place and a lot of hospitality
from the
family.
Michel Ogier (Ampuis) - Great Cote-Rotie and VDP Syrah
Cave de Tain L’Hermitage (Tain) – Decent growers cooperative in Hermitage
François Villard (St. Michel) - Great Condrieu, now also Cote-Rotie and
VDP Syrah

Southern Rhone

Chateau de Beaucastel (Courthézon) - Top but atypical Chateauneuf with a
penchant for mourvèdre
Beaurenard (CdP) - Traditional CdP, oaky luxury cuvee, good CdR and
Rasteau, too
Bosquet des Papes (CdP) - Honest and traditional Chateauneuf, still
reasonably priced
Dom. Brusset (Cairanne) - Their Les Hauts de Montmirail Gigondas is good.
Cave d'Estezargues (Estezargues) - Really good growers coop, great
value, excellent CdR also available in 5 l box.
Dom. Du Cayron (Gigondas) – One of the oldest and most consistent
estates in Gigondas
Clos des Cazaux (Vacqueyras) - More rustic wine than Chateauneuf
Clos du Mont Olivet (CdP) - Best value for money, 11 euro for beautiful
CdP, add 50% to get some really old vintages.
Clos des Papes (CdP) - Traditional Chateauneufs from the Avril family
Domaine Durban (Beaumes de Venise) - Great sweet Muscat and beautiful views
Font de Michelle (Bedarrides) - Refined CdP, fine whites, friendly
winemakers
Dom. la Garrigue (Gigondas) - Located on the grounds of the Les Florets
restaurant
Dom. Gourt de Mautens (Rasteau) - powerful deep reds, since 2002
developing great elegance
Dom. Gramenon (Monbrison) - Great syrah in the "vin naturel" style
Dom. du Grand Montmirail (Gigondas) – One of the top estates in Gigondas
Grand Tinel (CdP) - Good value, classic style of CdP; ask about their
table wine
Dom. de la Janasse (Courthézon) - The best whites in CdP
Dom. de Marcoux (CdP) - Expensive but one of the best CdP, biodynamic
Dom. de la Mordoree (Tavel) - Rich CdP and fresh lively rosés from Lirac
and Tavel
Domaine du Pegau (CdP) - Traditional, powerful CdP, English spoken here
Roger Perrin (Orange) - Best deal in CdP, fabulous in a good year with
terrific depth, declassified CdP sold in bulk
Dom. Varenne. Look for the 'Gigondas Fût Chene'
Vieux Telegraphe (Bedarrides) - Very traditional and famous red and
white CdP, now quite pricey
Dom. de Villeneuve (Orange) - The great Chateauneuf of Philippe Du Roy
De Blicquy

Dining:

Les Florets (Gigondas) - Great food, winery on premises
Le Chaudron (Tournon) - Across the bridge from Tain l'Hermitage, a
favourite haunt of the local winemakers, great food at a reasonable
price and local wines by the glass
La Beaugravière (Mondragon) - Not far from Orange, a very good
restaurant with one of the most interesting wine cellars in France and
certainly the best in the Rhone. Where else could you find sweet white
Chateau Rayas Grand Cru 1955? Huge selection of Chateauneuf (Rayas,
Marcoux, Beaucastel) and Hermitage.
Maison Borie (Lyon) - The new restaurant of Manuel Viron, Wonderful
decor, very original beautiful dining room in the Mouche area, inventive
delicious cuisine with friendly service and a great wine list.
La Pyramide (Vienne) - Two star ancient restaurant with a cuisine that
is both traditional and inventive, by Patrick Henriroux
Le Prieuré (Villeneuve les Avignon) - One star and excellent cuisine


Lodging:

Mas de la Marteliere (Le Thor) - Bed & Breakfast and Table d'Hote with
swimming pool, very welcoming, Patrick and Annick Laget are wine lovers
and will make you feel at home a few miles from CdP. (www.la-marteliere.com)
L'Aube Safran (Le Barroux) - In the heart of Vacqueyras Gigondas area,
with a magnificent view of the Dentelle de Montmirail and a swimming
pool, a stylish Bed & Breakfast expertly run by Françoise and François
Pillet who are also saffron growers and great cooks. (www.aube-safran.com)
Le Prieuré (Villeneuve les Avignon) - beautiful ancient priory with
comfortable rooms and a great restaurant.

Website:

http://www.vins-rhone.com

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Mark Lipton