Friday dinner was osso buco, from a Biba Caggiano recipe that
incorporates the gremolata into the sauce (making it much more wine
friendly). I opened the 1999 Felsina Chianti Classico. Lively black
cherry fruit, nose of flowers and leather. Tannins fully resolved,
bright acidity, a lovely textbook Chianti. A pointe. B+/A-

Saturday was date night, and I took Betsy to F.I.S.H. in Port Chester.
One travels through a rather rundown industrial area to get there, but
the food is worth it (and we'll be back in summer for the deck
overlooking the water). I started with calamari with smoked paprika
aioli, Betsy with some oysters. For the main course I had red snapper
with a tapenade crust, garlic mashed potatoes, wilted greens and
orange-fennel salad. Betsy had the shutome (Hawaiian swordfish) with
faro "risotto". All extremely good. I had carried along a bottle ($20
corkage, but they waived it as they asked us to switch tables just
after seating- good deal!). Wine was the 2002 Francois and Denis Clair
"Les Murgers de Dents de Chien"Saint-Aubin 1er Cru. Just stunning for
a "mere" St. Aubin, rich deep pear fruit bracketed by light toasted
oak/hazelnut notes and a stony minerality. As it evolved over dinner
(Betsy limited herself to a glass or so as driver, so I had plenty of
sips), a rich caramelly note appeared. Despite the richness, there's
a lot of acidic verve here. This could probably use more time, but
delicious now, and I've decided that with all the random oxidation
issues my white Burgundies are all going to die early deaths. This was
my last of this, but I wish I could stick a bottle in a lineup of 2002
Pulignys. A-

Earlier in the day I had riden into city with Betsy, then run errands
while she played matinee. I had a couple of mixed cases to pick up at
Chambers St. Wines, so took advantage to attend the big tasting of
Louis Dressner's French producers. Really incredible lineup of wines.
A few thoughts:
1) Though English skills varied, producers were all enthusiastic and
informative.
2) Wow, that was packed. CSW is a small space, but they made the most
of it. I developed a strategy at the busiest tables of getting a pour,
withdrawing, and spitting/dumping at less crowded tables.
3) What a great lineup. Don't think I tasted a wine I wouldn't welcome
at my table (I tasted maybe 50% of the early lineup, skipping wines I
already tasted (or was picking up already).
4) Though I didn't have much time for chatting, it was good to see old
offline companions like Jeff, Jake, Jay, and Manuel briefly.
5) I wish there were more spittoons. Not just for me, there were a few
folks there who I wished had been more sober.

Some wines tasted:
2005 Pepiere (Marc Ollivier) Cuvee Eden Muscadet- I always tend to buy
the regular and the Briords, but I should get this. Lovely, a little
more round than the regular cuvee, but with a long minerally finish
that I really adored.
2005 Pepiere (Marc Ollivier) Clos des Briords Muscadet- tasted even
though I own, big for Muscadet, needs time,but excellent.

2005 Terres Dorres (Brun) Chardonnay (Beaujolais Blanc)- I think I
like this better than the '04, rich yet with cut, clean with nice
chalky edge
2006 Terres Dorres (Brun)Beaujolais Rosé "Brun de Folie" - lightly
sweet, light, fun
All of the Brun reds were being served from ice, while I like
Beaujolais lightly chilled I found it hard to differentiate when
really cold, but the Fleurie was probably my fave.

2005 Michel Tete Julienas- light, forward, fun, fresh
2005 Michel Tete Julienas Cuvee Prestige- tighter, more brooding, with
lots of tannins for Beaujolais and a little wood note sticking out.
I'm passing, but guessing that in a few years this could be inserted
blind with some lighter Burgundies without comment.

2004 Eric Texier Cotes-du-Rhone Brezeme- I found an earlier vintage of
this too acid even for me, but this is nicely balanced, a medium-
weight with pretty red fruit , nice acids, and a good finish.
2004 Eric Texier "Domaine de Pergault Vieilles Vignes" Brezeme
Richer with a meaty/bacony nose, weighty, nice but needs time.
2004 Eric Texier Cote-Rotie
And we keep growing. Muscular yet perfumed, very nice indeed.

NV Renardat-Fache Cerdon du Bugey
New version much like the old- fun, frothy, and who needs serious?

2004 Cazin Cour-Cheverny
Lots of acidic cut, citrus fruits, needs food.
2004 Cazin "Cuvee Renaissance" Cour-Cheverny
Off-dry, great acids, this one would be great with food but I'd
happily slurp but itself!

2005 Closel "La Jalouise" Savennieres
Clean Chenin fruit, baked apples on a tight acidic core.
2005 Closel "Clos du Papillon" Savennieres
This one is raised in wood, but I didn't find it oaky, just a bit
rounder and fuller than the La Jalousie. I liked both.

2005 Catherine and Claude Marechal Savigny VV
I actually was trying to taste the Cuvee Gravel Bourgogne, but this is
what was poured, and I ran out of time. I loved this wine in 2002, and
the '05 seems at least as good. Of course, the exchange rate means
this is pushing $40, so I must think about it.

What a tasting. Even though I didn't taste everything, it was fun
sampling. And even with wines I didn't taste because I knew them and
own them, it was nice to tell folks like Jean Manciat how great I
think their wines are.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Thanks so much for the great notes, Dale. As you know, those are some
of my favorite wines, too. And F.I.S.H sounds like a winner of a
restaurant, too.

Mark Lipton