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Over the holidays, we traveled to Oregon for Christmas, then down to San
Francisco for my mother's 80th birthday and New Years. What follows here are the wines tasted in Oregon: On Christmas eve, our family gathers for a dinner of lamb and salmon. One cousin and I have for the past 5 years or so brought a few special wines to try. This year, my contributions we 1988 de Montille Pommard 'Les Rugiens' was opened 2 hours ahead of time and given a decant. At serving time, it had opened nicely to become a fairly four-square Burgundy with lots of raspberry fruit and pencil lead. 1988 J.-F. Mugnier Clos Vougeot was also opened 2 hours beforehand but not decanted. It proved to be remarkably similar to the Pommard, but showed some oakiness and had some added spice. (Alas, the 2005 Dönnhoff Riesling that I'd also brought was broken accidentally by a cousin) Both wines were very much alive and indeed might still be short of full maturity. On the 26th, I decamped for Yamhill County but most of my intended destinations were closed for the day. Instead, I stopped at the Ponzi Wine Bar in Dundee for a quick lunch and sampled their wines, finding them pretty unremarkable (as usual). The 2006 Pinot Blanc (13.5% ABV) smelled of apples and alcohol and light and clean. The 2006 Riesling (13% ABV) smelled of stones and kersosene and proved to be a lightly fruity wine with good acidity. The 2006 Pinot Gris (13.6% ABV) was pretty muted, but did taste of creamy pineapple with maybe a hint of citrus. The lone red wine at the tasting was the 2006 Tavola Pinot Noir (13.5% ABV), their VdT equivalent. It proved to have a smoky nose, bright cherry fruit and some oak. It would be a decent QPR choice at $15, but at the $25 they were asking for it, it's laughably overpriced. Moving on to Chehalem, I tried a much more interesting lineup of wines. Their 2006 Pinot Blanc Stoller Vyd (15.5% ABV) proved to be just as good as I remembered earlier editions of this wine to be. It has a potent, floral nose with good minerality, good acidity, a creamy texture and apple fruit. (It was given a sur lie treatment, which I think may have added to the body). A lovely wine. This led to a lengthy conversation with the pourer about my general preference for Pinot Blanc over Pinot Gris in Oregon, a point that he agreed with. He then stated that he felt that their Reserve PG was one of the best in the state. The 2006 Reserve Pinot Gris (15.5% ABV) had a mineral-laden nose and a creamy pineapply character, but was substantially less aromatic and less interesting than their PB. The 2004 Ian's Reserve Chardonnay had a nose of lemons and stones and a round mouthfeel with some lactic notes amid the white peach flavors. Not bad for a Chardonnay, but I'll take Brun's blanc for half the price first. The 2006 3 Vineyards Pinot Noir (14.8% ABV) showed bright cherry fruit in the nose with a bit of alcoholic burn and proved to have good acidity and loads of fruit. Also not a cheap wine, but one that can be drunk now or in 5 years time. Moving on to the single vineyard Pinots, we got to the 2005 Stoller Vineyard Pinot Noir which was all about smoky Pinot fruit, deep and young. An excellent example of Oregon Pinot to me. The 2005 Ridgecrest Vineyard Pinot Noir was an interesting contrast to the previous wine, showing much brighter red fruit in the nose, and proving to be more acidic and tannic and less deeply fruited. Certainly built for longer aging, this seemed far more Burgundian in character. Mark Lipton -- alt.food.wine FAQ: http://winefaq.hostexcellence.com |
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In article >, Mark Lipton >
wrote: > Over the holidays, we traveled to Oregon for Christmas, then down to San > Francisco for my mother's 80th birthday and New Years. What follows > here are the wines tasted in Oregon: > > On Christmas eve, our family gathers for a dinner of lamb and salmon. > One cousin and I have for the past 5 years or so brought a few special > wines to try. This year, my contributions we > > 1988 de Montille Pommard 'Les Rugiens' was opened 2 hours ahead of time > and given a decant. At serving time, it had opened nicely to become a > fairly four-square Burgundy with lots of raspberry fruit and pencil lead. > > 1988 J.-F. Mugnier Clos Vougeot was also opened 2 hours beforehand but > not decanted. It proved to be remarkably similar to the Pommard, but > showed some oakiness and had some added spice. > > (Alas, the 2005 Dönnhoff Riesling that I'd also brought was broken > accidentally by a cousin) > > Both wines were very much alive and indeed might still be short of full > maturity. > > On the 26th, I decamped for Yamhill County but most of my intended > destinations were closed for the day. Instead, I stopped at the Ponzi > Wine Bar in Dundee for a quick lunch and sampled their wines, finding > them pretty unremarkable (as usual). > > The 2006 Pinot Blanc (13.5% ABV) smelled of apples and alcohol and light > and clean. > > The 2006 Riesling (13% ABV) smelled of stones and kersosene and proved > to be a lightly fruity wine with good acidity. > > The 2006 Pinot Gris (13.6% ABV) was pretty muted, but did taste of > creamy pineapple with maybe a hint of citrus. > > The lone red wine at the tasting was the 2006 Tavola Pinot Noir (13.5% > ABV), their VdT equivalent. It proved to have a smoky nose, bright > cherry fruit and some oak. It would be a decent QPR choice at $15, but > at the $25 they were asking for it, it's laughably overpriced. > > Moving on to Chehalem, I tried a much more interesting lineup of wines. > > Their 2006 Pinot Blanc Stoller Vyd (15.5% ABV) proved to be just as good > as I remembered earlier editions of this wine to be. It has a potent, > floral nose with good minerality, good acidity, a creamy texture and > apple fruit. (It was given a sur lie treatment, which I think may have > added to the body). A lovely wine. > > This led to a lengthy conversation with the pourer about my general > preference for Pinot Blanc over Pinot Gris in Oregon, a point that he > agreed with. He then stated that he felt that their Reserve PG was one > of the best in the state. > > The 2006 Reserve Pinot Gris (15.5% ABV) had a mineral-laden nose and a > creamy pineapply character, but was substantially less aromatic and less > interesting than their PB. > > The 2004 Ian's Reserve Chardonnay had a nose of lemons and stones and a > round mouthfeel with some lactic notes amid the white peach flavors. Not > bad for a Chardonnay, but I'll take Brun's blanc for half the price first. > > The 2006 3 Vineyards Pinot Noir (14.8% ABV) showed bright cherry fruit > in the nose with a bit of alcoholic burn and proved to have good acidity > and loads of fruit. Also not a cheap wine, but one that can be drunk now > or in 5 years time. > > Moving on to the single vineyard Pinots, we got to the 2005 Stoller > Vineyard Pinot Noir which was all about smoky Pinot fruit, deep and > young. An excellent example of Oregon Pinot to me. > > The 2005 Ridgecrest Vineyard Pinot Noir was an interesting contrast to > the previous wine, showing much brighter red fruit in the nose, and > proving to be more acidic and tannic and less deeply fruited. Certainly > built for longer aging, this seemed far more Burgundian in character. > > Mark Lipton I couldn't find the Chehalem tasting room when I was there. Where exactly is it? |
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