Saturday Betsy was playing in an all night Indian music concert in
city, and I had the good fortune to have dinner with a nice group in
honor of a visit by Jacques Lardiere, who has been Jadot's winemaker
for many years. Cathleen and Steve were great hosts, Jacques was
charming and knowledgable, and we all had a great evening.

Before heading to table, we enjoyed some cured meats and rabbit pate
with the NV Taittinger Prelude Champagne. Nice, fuller styled than
Taittinger's basic Brut, yet retaining the latter's elegance. Bread
dough, baked apples, full and long. B+/A-

First up were 3 white Burgundies, accompanied by a lovely dish of
scallops and mushrooms in a cream sauce with peas.

1997 Louis Jadot "Les Folatieres" Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
I really didn't care much for this at first, it still seemed to have a
little raw oak edge (at 12?!), sweet pear fruit, a bit short. With the
food it showed MUCH better, good acidity for a '97, and even after
food was gone I liked it much more. Some Puligny stoniness, seemed
longer. B

1989 Louis Jadot "Les Folatieres" Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Lovely nose, honeysuckle and pears, a hint of mushroom. Nice length,
gunflinty minerals, complex and long. Ended up (barely) as my white of
the night, but I think I was only one. A-/B+

1985 Louis Jadot "Les Demoiselles" Chevalier-Montrachet
Despite the Grand Cru status, this actually came across to me as more
delicate than either Folatieres. A bit muted on nose at first, but
lovely and precise on palate, and nose opened through the night. B+/A-

Next up were 3 reds, served with beautiful beef filet, sauteed ramps,
and very cute and tasty little coins of fingerling potatoes:

2006 Louis Jadot "Clos des Ursules" Beaune 1er Cru
Nice wine, kind of a Pommard-y meatiness, ripe tannins, good acids,
clean dark fruit. Needs time. B/B+

1988 Louis Jadot "Clos des Ursules" Beaune 1er Cru
This is beginning to drink beautifully. Red and black cherry fruit,
loamy soil and some herb, excellent length, some tannins remaining and
good acids. Not as complex as the 2 red Grand Crus, but a nice wine
that might be within my budget, I'll keep an eye out. A-/B+

1985 Louis Jadot Chambertin Clos de Beze
Sweet fruit, a little meat and blood, ferric mineral notes. Good
length, brambly, I was certain this was going to be my WOTN. Nope. A-

Then we did one more white and one more red , and a great cheese
course (with some beautifully ripe Epoisses)

1979 Louis Jadot "Les Folatieres" Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
There was some discussion about whether this was a teeny bit corked,
but I didn't think so. It has a little cheesy mustiness to it, but
that blew off (I thought) and the fruit was quite vibrant. Pears and
hazelnut, ever evolving, I thought this quite good. B++

1969 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot
Really hard to believe this was 40 years old, the advantages of a wine
never moving. Fresh, young, and stunningly lovely. Vibrant, delineated
fruit with baking spices and earth. Delicate yet full, a gorgeous
gorgeous mature Burgundy and my WOTN. A/A-

A great showing for Jadot.

Mark had brought along a little mini vertical of a California Pinot
Noir I'm unfamilar with:

1985 Calera "Jensen Vineyard" Pinot Noir
My favorite of the bunch, mature, red fruit and forest floor, good
length, nice balance. B+

1986 Calera "Jensen Vineyard" Pinot Noir
This was some people's favorite, but the fruit had a bit too much of a
kirschy character for me. Still, a nice straightforward CA PN . B

1990 Calera "Jensen Vineyard" Pinot Noir
Youngest but seemed the oldest, a little tired , a little too funky,
others liked more than I did. C+/B-

Plus Craig brought a bottle of 1980 Joseph Swan Pinot Noir. A bit on
the sharp side, a note of cherry cola, seems younger than it is. B

Really just a great evening. As wonderful as the wines were (and the
food!), the real treasure was the company. Our host and hostess were
attentive and caring, and Jacques was a delight. He was full of
stories and information, my favorite memory was his impassioned tale
of opening a forgotten stash of '67 reds that turned out wonderfully,
a lesson in assumptions. A night that reminds me why I like being a
winegeek.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
*