Notes from a dinner featuring Burgundies.

Bollinger NV - always a pleasant way to start a meal. Soft and seemingly
slightly off dry, though I don't know if there is really appreciable residual
sugar.


2002 Dom. de la Muliere Chablis Prem. Cru 'Monts de Milieu' - fresh off the
plane this week, steely and clean a middle of the road Chablis in terms of
weight and flavour, excellent with smoked salmon.

2002 Dom. Barat Chablis Prem. Cru 'Vaillons' - more oak (the previous wine
probably had none at all). Classic Chablis nose, the wine clean and balanced
with perhaps a little less bright acidity. Very good, but I give the nod to the
first wine. Looks like a good vintage for Chablis, judging by this sampling.


1991 Armand Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - good colour, and
a really excellent nose of vanilla and red fruit, with a slight tarry note.
Still firm it has an elegance and a pleasant sweetness right at the end that is
endearing. Ready now, but only just, the assertive tannins of the vintage now
smoothing out.

1991 Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques - a bit sweeter in the
nose, with even more lush fruit, and a bit better structure, this is my
favourite of the two. No rush on this one - it probably needs a couple more
years.

1999 Solalto - from Le Pupille, a Morellino producer. A blend of Tuscan
traminer, sauvignon blanc and semillon done in dessert wine style. Details are
available at www.elisabettageppetti.com It came across as a light Barsac might
(at a lower price, mind you).