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I was at the Italian (really Piedmont) table for the Berserkerfest at
Peking Duck House Friday night. It's always hard to take notes of any sort at these huge events, but a slight cold (flu shot reaction?), 3 hours of sleep, and a rushed trip to PDH meant I was even less attentive. Actually I was just proud not to fall asleep at table. So what follows is less notes than fleeting blurred impressions. I know I missed some wines; I also probably missed quite a few designations on the wines I did note. There was a mag of 1981 Lanson, fully mature, some pleasant cheesy notes, good length. NV Taittinger Champagne (from Big A#$ bottle, didn't ask how many liters) was typical of one of my favorite big house bubbles. Thanks Leo.* I passed around a bottle of the NV Bernard Bremont "Cuvee Prestige"* Champagne, which I'm quite fond of, and figured few would have tasted. There was a lone white at our table, the 2001 Pepe Trebbiano. While tight, I really thought this had something nice lurking underneath, and it tasted even better at end of evening. Great acids, a strange but appealing Epoisses meets dirt note, good finish. There was also a truly excellent bottle of 2001 Muller-Catoir Spatlese from neighboring table, I thought '01 was supposed to be iffy for M-C, but this was flat out delicious -like fresh fruit cocktail -thanks Jay. We went to our one Barbera and several non-B or B Nebbiolos. The 1998 Vietti Barbera was quite popular at table, but had a weird smokey/ ashey thing I didn't care for (but I generally don't care for aged Barbera- -young or not at all is my theory). There was a 2000 Nebbiolo d'Alba (producer?)* that was rounder and pleasant, but not compelling. Next up, 2 Gattinaras. The* 1974 Travaglini was beautiful, and easily one of my wines of the night. My notes just read "sweet, sweet, still some structure, earth, tar, delicious." A 1970 Antoniolo was tasty, though not the marvel the Travaglini was. The 1967 Vallana "Cinque Castelli" Spanna was tasty and typical, serious earthy funk over a solid fruit base, I liked this a tad better than a good bottle of 64 Vallana I served recently. Never gonna mistake these for Barolo, but fun wines. On to the B & Bs. I had opened the 1967 Oddero Barolo at home for sediment reasons, when I double-decanted I got a touch of a sherry-ish note from the rose colored wine. I was debating switching to another bottle, but as I double decanted my other first team bottle the color darkened, flavors deepened, and the oxidative notes seemed to fade, I decided it would be fine (the mystery of old Barolo). But when we got to it at PDH, the maderized notes were back with a vengeance. Damn. On to a pair of '88s. I think I was only one to prefer Roagna to Conterno. The 1988 Roagna Crichet Paje had high acids with good length, classic tar and earth notes, a bit of spice. *The 1988 Aldo Conterno Bussia Soprana was larger framed, softer, and also appealing. 1995 Roagna La Rocca e La Pira was a bit lifted on nose at first, a bit too much for me, but a little revisit had calmed down, leaving a pretty classic Barolo. I thought the 2000*Elio Grasso Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate was ok, but showed a bit of heat and caramel, while the 2000 Marcarini Brunate was still tight 6 hours after I decanted it - I thought 2000 might be more approachable, but this was mostly showing potential. After a sip of the 2001 Bartolo Mascarello I started to say to James that the tannins were more manageable than I expected, when my mouth seemed to suddenly be hit by a wave of astringent tannins. Hands off, but think this will be a beauty. There was also a delicious taste of the 1982 Bartolo Mascarello from a neighboring table (thanks Greg), and a sip from a mag of 1990 Parusso as well- showed the 1990 ripe/roast character, but not over the top (thanks Brad). The 2004 Rhys Family Farm Pinot seemed to generate a lot of disagreement. I thought it muted with just a hint of merde at first, but when I went to pour out an impulsive resample seemed rather elegant. At end I felt like going back to whites after a bt of tannin overload with the 00s and 01, besides the Pepe I sampled a bottle of 200x (label torn on last digit) Ferret Pouilly Fuisse (not the basic, but I didn't note which one) that was quite delicious, long and minerally with just a touch of oak and very vibrant. There was also a Weinbach where I didn't note bottling, a Chambolle, a Brunello, and several others. I was a bit less socialable than usual, but everyone there more than compensated. Ok appetizers, tons of duck (I wish they had brought more gradually, as last ones weren't as appealing cold), good greens and beans. A really fun crowd (except me), and good to see old friends and meet new people. Special thanks to Michel for all of his organizational work, and Leo for getting our table going. |
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