Dinner last night was duck ragu over pasta, with spinach and the 2009
Clos de la Roillete (Coudert) Fleurie. Regular version (I've already
tried CT), served way too cold initially (passive cellar). As it warms
a lovely midbodied Gamay,floral, black cherry fruit, full, good
length. Even better on night 2. A sure buy again- a tad less
structured than the CT, but still deep and "serious." B+/A-

Also tried the 2009 St Urbans Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling
Kabinett. White and citrus fruits, as previously noted by Joe more
Spatlese weight and sweetness, but good length, and a distinct slatey
mineral note on finish. Nice length, I'll get a few more at $15. B+

Tonight wings in a soy/honey/pepper glaze, julienned snowpeas with
onion and sesame oil (thanks Robin!), and brown rice with furikake.
The wings were from a recent Food and Wine, which suggested "supple
blackberry-rich Merlot," specifically a CA one. Seemed a stretch to
me, but I decided sometimes it's good to try outside one's comfort
zone. I didn't have a CA Merlot handy, but chose a supple Bordeaux
Merlot, the 2000 La Fleur du Bouard (Lalande de Pomerol). Decanted
(very little sediment), sweet black plum and raspberry, smoke, coffee.
Soft mostly resolved tannins. A pretty good modern styled Bordeaux,
but I can't say that cellaring brought any real improvement- change,
yes (in form of resolving tannins), but nothing that justifies
cellaring 7 or 8 years. My strategy for modernista Bordeaux continues
to evolve towards drink young. B/B+

As to the match, I think supple Merlot is a terrible choice. I liked
the wings enough to say Betsy should do again, but next time my
choices would be (in order) rose sparkling, just off dry Riesling, or
dry rose.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.*

On Jan 15, 10:37*pm, DaleW > wrote:
> Dinner last night was duck ragu over pasta, with spinach and the 2009
> Clos de la Roillete (Coudert) Fleurie. Regular version (I've already
> tried CT), served way too cold initially (passive cellar). As it warms
> a lovely midbodied Gamay,floral, black cherry fruit, full, good
> length. Even better on night 2. A sure buy again- a tad less
> structured than the CT, but still deep and "serious." B+/A-
>
> Also tried the 2009 St Urbans Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling
> Kabinett. White and citrus fruits, as previously noted by Joe more
> Spatlese weight and sweetness, but good length, and a distinct slatey
> mineral note on finish. Nice length, I'll get *a few more at $15. B+
>
> Tonight wings in a soy/honey/pepper glaze, julienned snowpeas with
> onion and sesame oil (thanks Robin!), and brown rice with furikake.
> The wings were from a recent Food and Wine, which suggested "supple
> blackberry-rich Merlot," specifically a CA one. Seemed a stretch to
> me, but I decided sometimes it's good to try outside one's comfort
> zone. I didn't have a CA Merlot handy, but chose a supple Bordeaux
> Merlot, the 2000 La Fleur du Bouard (Lalande de Pomerol). Decanted
> (very little sediment), sweet black plum and raspberry, smoke, coffee.
> Soft mostly resolved tannins. A pretty good modern styled Bordeaux,
> but I can't say that cellaring brought any real improvement- change,
> yes (in form of resolving tannins), but nothing that justifies
> cellaring 7 or 8 years. My strategy for modernista Bordeaux continues
> to evolve towards drink young. B/B+
>
> As to the match, I think supple Merlot is a terrible choice. I liked
> the wings enough to say Betsy should do again, but next time my
> choices would be (in order) rose sparkling, just off dry Riesling, or
> dry rose.
>
> Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
> wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
> drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
> promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.*

Quite frankly I don't think food writers know squat about wines these
days and I never take their recommendations.

Bi!! wrote:
> On Jan 15, 10:37 pm, DaleW > wrote:
>> Dinner last night was duck ragu over pasta, with spinach and the 2009
>> Clos de la Roillete (Coudert) Fleurie. Regular version (I've already
>> tried CT), served way too cold initially (passive cellar). As it warms
>> a lovely midbodied Gamay,floral, black cherry fruit, full, good
>> length. Even better on night 2. A sure buy again- a tad less
>> structured than the CT, but still deep and "serious." B+/A-
>>
>> Also tried the 2009 St Urbans Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling
>> Kabinett. White and citrus fruits, as previously noted by Joe more
>> Spatlese weight and sweetness, but good length, and a distinct slatey
>> mineral note on finish. Nice length, I'll get a few more at $15. B+
>>
>> Tonight wings in a soy/honey/pepper glaze, julienned snowpeas with
>> onion and sesame oil (thanks Robin!), and brown rice with furikake.
>> The wings were from a recent Food and Wine, which suggested "supple
>> blackberry-rich Merlot," specifically a CA one. Seemed a stretch to
>> me, but I decided sometimes it's good to try outside one's comfort
>> zone. I didn't have a CA Merlot handy, but chose a supple Bordeaux
>> Merlot, the 2000 La Fleur du Bouard (Lalande de Pomerol). Decanted
>> (very little sediment), sweet black plum and raspberry, smoke, coffee.
>> Soft mostly resolved tannins. A pretty good modern styled Bordeaux,
>> but I can't say that cellaring brought any real improvement- change,
>> yes (in form of resolving tannins), but nothing that justifies
>> cellaring 7 or 8 years. My strategy for modernista Bordeaux continues
>> to evolve towards drink young. B/B+
>>
>> As to the match, I think supple Merlot is a terrible choice. I liked
>> the wings enough to say Betsy should do again, but next time my
>> choices would be (in order) rose sparkling, just off dry Riesling, or
>> dry rose.
>>
>> Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
>> wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
>> drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
>> promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
>
> Quite frankly I don't think food writers know squat about wines these
> days and I never take their recommendations.

I'll go one step further, Bill: I think that most restaurants' wine
pairing recommendations aren't worth the ink it took to print them. I
can't begin to count the times that I've seen fairly delicate, subtly
flavored dishes paired with oaky, OTT CalChards or spicy ethnic foods
paired with CalCabs. It seems to be about moving the more expensive
wines rather than any real philosophy. Residents of NYC, Chicago, SF or
LA will likely have better experiences, though.

Mark Lipton

p.s. Dale: no surprises with the Coudert and SUH Kab, but good to hear
about the '00 Fleur de Boüard. I have one bottle (purchased in NYC IIRC
the day after dining at your house back in '03 or whatever) and have
wondering when/if to open it. I won't have it with wings, though ;-)

On Jan 16, 3:25*pm, Mark Lipton > wrote:
> Bi!! wrote:
> > On Jan 15, 10:37 pm, DaleW > wrote:
> >> Dinner last night was duck ragu over pasta, with spinach and the 2009
> >> Clos de la Roillete (Coudert) Fleurie. Regular version (I've already
> >> tried CT), served way too cold initially (passive cellar). As it warms
> >> a lovely midbodied Gamay,floral, black cherry fruit, full, good
> >> length. Even better on night 2. A sure buy again- a tad less
> >> structured than the CT, but still deep and "serious." B+/A-
>
> >> Also tried the 2009 St Urbans Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling
> >> Kabinett. White and citrus fruits, as previously noted by Joe more
> >> Spatlese weight and sweetness, but good length, and a distinct slatey
> >> mineral note on finish. Nice length, I'll get *a few more at $15. B+
>
> >> Tonight wings in a soy/honey/pepper glaze, julienned snowpeas with
> >> onion and sesame oil (thanks Robin!), and brown rice with furikake.
> >> The wings were from a recent Food and Wine, which suggested "supple
> >> blackberry-rich Merlot," specifically a CA one. Seemed a stretch to
> >> me, but I decided sometimes it's good to try outside one's comfort
> >> zone. I didn't have a CA Merlot handy, but chose a supple Bordeaux
> >> Merlot, the 2000 La Fleur du Bouard (Lalande de Pomerol). Decanted
> >> (very little sediment), sweet black plum and raspberry, smoke, coffee.
> >> Soft mostly resolved tannins. A pretty good modern styled Bordeaux,
> >> but I can't say that cellaring brought any real improvement- change,
> >> yes (in form of resolving tannins), but nothing that justifies
> >> cellaring 7 or 8 years. My strategy for modernista Bordeaux continues
> >> to evolve towards drink young. B/B+
>
> >> As to the match, I think supple Merlot is a terrible choice. I liked
> >> the wings enough to say Betsy should do again, but next time my
> >> choices would be (in order) rose sparkling, just off dry Riesling, or
> >> dry rose.
>
> >> Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
> >> wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
> >> drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
> >> promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
>
> > Quite frankly I don't think food writers know squat about wines these
> > days and I never take their recommendations.
>
> I'll go one step further, Bill: I think that most restaurants' wine
> pairing recommendations aren't worth the ink it took to print them. *I
> can't begin to count the times that I've seen fairly delicate, subtly
> flavored dishes paired with oaky, OTT CalChards or spicy ethnic foods
> paired with CalCabs. *It seems to be about moving the more expensive
> wines rather than any real philosophy. *Residents of NYC, Chicago, SF or
> LA will likely have better experiences, though.
>
> Mark Lipton
>
> p.s. Dale: no surprises with the Coudert and SUH Kab, but good to hear
> about the '00 Fleur de Bo ard. *I have one bottle (purchased in NYC IIRC
> the day after dining at your house back in '03 or whatever) and have
> wondering when/if to open it. I won't have *it with wings, though ;-)

I agree that often mag recs are a bit lacking, but I also like to
sometimes challenge my own preconceptions (if only, as in this case,
to say "aha I was right"). Helped to have the Kab in reserve.

I will say that this issue of F&W had some interesting pairings in a
section of "edgy wines" - I think veal with a Gravner or Radikon, and
a Tondonia rosado with a seafood salad, both seemed unconventional but
promising.

Not many restaurants I go to have listed matches. I've thought
sommelier pairings have ranged from great (Manresa and Convivio) to ho-
hum.

On 1/17/11 9:30 AM, DaleW wrote:

> Not many restaurants I go to have listed matches. I've thought
> sommelier pairings have ranged from great (Manresa and Convivio) to ho-
> hum.

Even sommelier pairings can be hit or miss in my experience, though a
good sommelier usually comes up with something of interest. At the top
of the heap for me were the pairings at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona,
Spain, where the Roca brother in charge of wines came up with unusual
pairings from Spain and Germany. (If Levi Dalton was your sommelier at
Convivio, I'm certain he did the same with Italy) Most often, though,
Jean and I are getting different foods so we end up eschewing the
pairings and going with a single bottle (or two half bottles when
possible) and then it's a conversation with a sommelier.

Mark Lipton

--
alt.food.wine FAQ: http://winefaq.cwdjr.net

On Jan 18, 10:09*am, Mark Lipton > wrote:
> On 1/17/11 9:30 AM, DaleW wrote:
>
> > Not many restaurants I go to have listed matches. I've thought
> > sommelier pairings have ranged from great (Manresa and Convivio) to ho-
> > hum.
>
> Even sommelier pairings can be hit or miss in my experience, though a
> good sommelier usually comes up with something of interest. *At the top
> of the heap for me were the pairings at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona,
> Spain, where the Roca brother in charge of wines came up with unusual
> pairings from Spain and Germany. *(If Levi Dalton was your sommelier at
> Convivio, I'm certain he did the same with Italy) *Most often, though,
> Jean and I are getting different foods so we end up eschewing the
> pairings and going with a single bottle (or two half bottles when
> possible) and then it's a conversation with a sommelier.
>
> Mark Lipton
>
> --
> alt.food.wine FAQ: *http://winefaq.cwdjr.net

We do the same basic thing. Often a glass of a sparkler if it's not a
gouge. Being in the wine distribution business made it hard to enjoy
wines in restaurants when you would sell a bottle to a restaurant for
$3.66 and see it offered at $8 per glass....kinda takes the fun out of
it.