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Bill Spohn
 
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Default Deer Memories

Dinner at home with old friends. The raison d'etre of this gathering was some
venison - white tail deer from Saskatchewan - donated by a client:

1999 Dom. Les Hautes Noelles Muscadet Cotes de Grand Lieu sur lie - the name
wasn't intentionally chosen to suit Christmas. Salty crisp nose and a very
good accompaniment to oysters Rockefeller done with sautéed ham and without
white sauce.

1999 Colombo Cornas "Les Mejeans" - I continue to be astounded by how forward
this wine has been. I know that Colombo is definitely in the 'new age' camp of
winemaking, and that one doesn't expect brutally tannic monsters that need 15
years before becoming approachable, but this one has always been surprisingly
friendly. Purple rim, a nose of leather, plum and anise, still lots of tannin,
but quite soft. This can be drunk with pleasure now but will hold for many
years. Served with risotto con funghi - chanterelles, winter chanterelles,
porcini, and morels.

1990 Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Boscareto - this has been developing more quickly
than the 1990 Bofani, so I thought I might show well with the main course,
which was roast venison with braised endive wrapped in ham and broiled with
emmenthal. Typical Barolo nose with some tar and herbs, and a pleasant
sweetness in mid palate that continued into the medium long finish. Soft
tannins, and no rush to drink, but I think it is hitting it's plateau of
drinkability (which should be a fairly long one) now.

1998 Accordini Passo - with cheese, this wine showed a ripe, rich, sweet nose,
although not a high alcohol. Forward wine, that went very well with the cheese,
it is made from Corvina 60%, Rondinella 15%,Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Merlot 10%,
the first two being dried a bit before vinification to concentrate flavours.



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