Wednesday, with lamb chops with a dry rub (cumin, allspice, and lots of
other spices), the 1995 Jaboulet Cornas. I had no high hopes, and it
was a good thing I didn't. Initially a bit grapey and simple, with
rather hard tannins. Later some pepper and smoke as the fruit filled
out just a bit (dark berry), but the fruit is still modest with a fully
mature sense, and the tannins are still biting. Not a lot of pleasure
in this bottle. C+

Hopes were even lower for the 1998 "Vaillons" Chablis 1er Cru (375). A
half-bottle from a vintage with a mediocre rep. But this one surpassed
my low expectations. Less acidic than I expected, but with a very nice
mineral core. No sign of oak (or oxidation), a clean pear and white
peach fruit base but dominated by a stony minerality. If there was more
acidic zip this probably would have gotten an A- from me, but a B for
this showing.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of
consistency.