Eric Asimov of the New York Times has rapidly become my favorite
newspaper wine writer, mostly for the interesting subjects he writes on.
Today's topic is some 2001s from Rioja. I don't agree with all of his
judgments (his fondness for the '01 Torre Muga is worrisome if their '94
is anything to go by), but it's an interesting topic and he's tried some
good wines. Of course, many of the traditional bodegas have yet to
release their Reservas or GRs, so the tasting is slanted to Crianzas and
"modern" wines. It still makes for good reading:

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/22/dining/22wine.html

[yes, free registration or http://www.bugmenot.com/ needed to read this]

Mark Lipton

Mark Lipton > wrote in news:dti52r$m2c$1
@mailhub227.itcs.purdue.edu:

> Eric Asimov of the New York Times has rapidly become my favorite
> newspaper wine writer, mostly for the interesting subjects he writes on.
> Today's topic is some 2001s from Rioja. I don't agree with all of his
> judgments (his fondness for the '01 Torre Muga is worrisome if their '94
> is anything to go by), but it's an interesting topic and he's tried some
> good wines. Of course, many of the traditional bodegas have yet to
> release their Reservas or GRs, so the tasting is slanted to Crianzas and
> "modern" wines. It still makes for good reading:

Read it in the (Spanish) morning and, while I agree that Asimov is a great
wine writer, with a close to perfect balance to appeal both the winelover
and the newcomer (I read Wednesday's Food and Wine special at NYT online,
ask for globalisation), I'd say that Torre Muga never appealed to me. I did
not taste the supposedly great 1994, but I think I tasted 98, 00 and 01 and
none of them made me buy a single bottle.

I think Pagos de Villareal 2001 (a single vineyard from CVNE) was the best
of the lot of Riojas I tasted in December 2004 at "La cata de los lacres"
that was held in Madrid. I have never tasted Grandes Añadas, mostly because
the price tag.

I miss Contino Viña del Olivo 2001 which, to me, is a quintaessential Rioja
from a great vintage, and with a track record. Same with "La Viña de Andrés
Romeo", the wine from Benjamín Romeo which I tasted one month ago and
thought was outstanding. Señorío de San Vicente 2001, also tasted one month
ago was either overoaked or underwined. Lots of toffee, but this is not
what I look for in a wine (YMMV).

S.

Santiago wrote:

> Read it in the (Spanish) morning and, while I agree that Asimov is a great
> wine writer, with a close to perfect balance to appeal both the winelover
> and the newcomer (I read Wednesday's Food and Wine special at NYT online,
> ask for globalisation), I'd say that Torre Muga never appealed to me. I did
> not taste the supposedly great 1994, but I think I tasted 98, 00 and 01 and
> none of them made me buy a single bottle.

Yes, Torre Muga is not a style of Rioja that appeals to me: too much
oakiness and not enough character. It's not so much that I'm a dogmatic
traditionalist, but so many "International" styled wines just lack much
in the way of varietal or regional character. Why shell out US$75 for a
Tinto Pesquera when I get more enjoyment from Borsao?

>
> I think Pagos de Villareal 2001 (a single vineyard from CVNE) was the best
> of the lot of Riojas I tasted in December 2004 at "La cata de los lacres"
> that was held in Madrid. I have never tasted Grandes Añadas, mostly because
> the price tag.

CVNE is one of my favorite producers these days, at all levels.

>
> I miss Contino Viña del Olivo 2001 which, to me, is a quintaessential Rioja
> from a great vintage, and with a track record. Same with "La Viña de Andrés
> Romeo", the wine from Benjamín Romeo which I tasted one month ago and
> thought was outstanding. Señorío de San Vicente 2001, also tasted one month
> ago was either overoaked or underwined. Lots of toffee, but this is not
> what I look for in a wine (YMMV).

Thanks for the feedback, Santiago. My one San Vicente left me quite
underwhelmed (see above for reasons), as did Sierra Cantabria. I'll
have to make an effort to find the Viña de Andrés Romeo.

Mark Lipton

I think Asimov is doing well at his new assignment overall.

I too am not a Torre Muga fan, I tend to much prefer their Prado Enea.