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Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes. |
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Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing
procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small batches from fruit and honey. Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a better method? Thanks, Andrew |
Posted to rec.crafts.winemaking
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Andrew,
I use B-Brite for cleaning (which is probably the same, but I don't know) then I rinse with water, then I sulfite with Sodium Metabisulfite. _no rinsing after that. Never had a problem. Then again, I never had a problem before using this routine, either. A lot depends on how long you expect you wine to last after you make it. IMO if you're going to drink it within 8 months anyway, you'll probably be ok w/o the SMS, but there are risks involved, and they'll change with the alcohol content and pH level of the wine. In short, sulfite, sulfite, sulfite. Andrew wrote: > Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing > procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small > batches from fruit and honey. > > Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle > Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a > better method? > > Thanks, > Andrew |
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Suggestion; add a few grams of citric acid when you make up your KMS
solution. For santizing, I usually make a 5% KMS solution, with about a 1% citric acid additive. "Andrew" > wrote in message news:aRSXg.134900$5R2.18781@pd7urf3no... > That's what I needed to know. I was unsure about the sulphite as the > Sparkle bright smeels of chlorine and I thought it was good enough. Sounds > like a little extra work for a safer end product. I'll buy some this week. > > Thanks for the help. > > Andrew > > wrote: >> Andrew, >> I use B-Brite for cleaning (which is probably the same, but I don't >> know) then I rinse with water, then I sulfite with Sodium >> Metabisulfite. _no rinsing after that. Never had a problem. Then >> again, I never had a problem before using this routine, either. A lot >> depends on how long you expect you wine to last after you make it. IMO >> if you're going to drink it within 8 months anyway, you'll probably be >> ok w/o the SMS, but there are risks involved, and they'll change with >> the alcohol content and pH level of the wine. >> In short, sulfite, sulfite, sulfite. >> >> >> Andrew wrote: >> >>>Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing >>>procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small >>>batches from fruit and honey. >>> >>>Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle >>>Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a >>>better method? >>> >>>Thanks, >>>Andrew >> |
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rinse out that sparkle brite well
Andrew wrote: > That's what I needed to know. I was unsure about the sulphite as the > Sparkle bright smeels of chlorine and I thought it was good enough. > Sounds like a little extra work for a safer end product. I'll buy some > this week. > > Thanks for the help. > > Andrew > > wrote: > > Andrew, > > I use B-Brite for cleaning (which is probably the same, but I don't > > know) then I rinse with water, then I sulfite with Sodium > > Metabisulfite. _no rinsing after that. Never had a problem. Then > > again, I never had a problem before using this routine, either. A lot > > depends on how long you expect you wine to last after you make it. IMO > > if you're going to drink it within 8 months anyway, you'll probably be > > ok w/o the SMS, but there are risks involved, and they'll change with > > the alcohol content and pH level of the wine. > > In short, sulfite, sulfite, sulfite. > > > > > > Andrew wrote: > > > >>Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing > >>procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small > >>batches from fruit and honey. > >> > >>Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle > >>Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a > >>better method? > >> > >>Thanks, > >>Andrew > > > > |
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Oxiclean is much better and safer for wine and beermaking. I formally
used chlorine but not anymore. Oxiclean actually cleans organic stains like that white film that forms on the destemmer great, where chlorine doesn't. Bob Andrew wrote: > Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing > procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small > batches from fruit and honey. > > Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle > Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a > better method? > > Thanks, > Andrew |
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Andrew-
I use Iodophor and NaMS / KMS. For unknown equipment I soak it in iodophor solution (2 caps / 5 gallons = 12.5 ppm). That's a sterilizer- 60 seconds of contact kills. It's a no-rinse sanitizer so you *could* leave it in contact- I have waffled back and forth yet for wine (for beer it doesn't matter). Maybe this year I'll try a few bottles each way and rack them for a year and see if I can taste/smell a difference. Either way, drain it well or rinse it well. Sometimes if I'm feeling particularly difficult I'll even rinse the bottles with NaMS/Citric, then rinse again. No problems so far. Jason Andrew wrote: > Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing > procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small > batches from fruit and honey. > > Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle > Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a > better method? > > Thanks, > Andrew |
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What do you add the citric acid to the NaMS? Just curious!
> wrote in message ups.com... > Andrew- > > I use Iodophor and NaMS / KMS. For unknown equipment I soak it in > iodophor solution (2 caps / 5 gallons = 12.5 ppm). That's a > sterilizer- 60 seconds of contact kills. > > It's a no-rinse sanitizer so you *could* leave it in contact- I have > waffled back and forth yet for wine (for beer it doesn't matter). > Maybe this year I'll try a few bottles each way and rack them for a > year and see if I can taste/smell a difference. Either way, drain it > well or rinse it well. > > Sometimes if I'm feeling particularly difficult I'll even rinse the > bottles with NaMS/Citric, then rinse again. > > No problems so far. > > Jason > > > Andrew wrote: >> Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing >> procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small >> batches from fruit and honey. >> >> Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle >> Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a >> better method? >> >> Thanks, >> Andrew > |
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NaMS is cheaper than KMS. So I use (Sodium Metabisulfite) for
sanitizing and leave the KMS for additions. The Citric Acid enhances the sanitization by shifting the pH. Jason Eric P. wrote: > What do you add the citric acid to the NaMS? Just curious! > > > wrote in message > ups.com... > > Andrew- > > > > I use Iodophor and NaMS / KMS. For unknown equipment I soak it in > > iodophor solution (2 caps / 5 gallons = 12.5 ppm). That's a > > sterilizer- 60 seconds of contact kills. > > > > It's a no-rinse sanitizer so you *could* leave it in contact- I have > > waffled back and forth yet for wine (for beer it doesn't matter). > > Maybe this year I'll try a few bottles each way and rack them for a > > year and see if I can taste/smell a difference. Either way, drain it > > well or rinse it well. > > > > Sometimes if I'm feeling particularly difficult I'll even rinse the > > bottles with NaMS/Citric, then rinse again. > > > > No problems so far. > > > > Jason > > > > > > Andrew wrote: > >> Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing > >> procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small > >> batches from fruit and honey. > >> > >> Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle > >> Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a > >> better method? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> Andrew > > |
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Huh! I never thought of oxyclean. I use bleach on anything that I
haven't used in a while, or anything will a visible stain or film. Then I rinse it 3 to 5 times with clear water, or until all bleach smell is gone. Before using all equipment I rinse it in NaMS, and just shake off the excess -- no further rinsing. I normally use 2 oz of NaMS in 1 gallon water -- I recently made up a batch of 4 oz in 1 gallon. Won't do that again -- the odor is so violent and rough on the sinuses that I have to have a fan running. On the bright side, I'm sure it kills everything it touches! :-) Bryan On 13 Oct 2006 17:35:43 -0700, wrote: >Oxiclean is much better and safer for wine and beermaking. I formally >used chlorine but not anymore. Oxiclean actually cleans organic stains >like that white film that forms on the destemmer great, where chlorine >doesn't. > >Bob > > >Andrew wrote: >> Hello. I'm hoping that someone could help me with my santizing >> procedure. Currently I make a few wines from kits and other small >> batches from fruit and honey. >> >> Up until now I've only ever washed my equipment and bottles with Sparkle >> Bright, rinsing with tap water and have not had any problems. Is there a >> better method? >> >> Thanks, >> Andrew |
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