I've checked the archives and can find nothing respecting the method I would
like to use to make and oak "barrel" for making vinegar.

I am thinking of getting a 12in. section of an American oak tree (diameter
unknown). I then plan to cut 1.5in thick pieces off the end and set them
aside. In the 9in. that remains, I will drill a 0.75in. diameter hole down
the length of the log. I then intend to get a saw blade inside the hole
(down the entire length), attach the saw and remove the core. I hope to
leave about 2in. of thickness intact. I would drill a hole for a bung and
use dowels and an Elmer's-type wood glue to fit the ends onto the 9in.
piece.

I don't know how well this will work and will keep everyone updated.

Does anyone think this will or will not work? Tips, etc. are appreciated.


Patrick

Patrick,

One problem is that the grain on the ends will be going the wrong way,
It will act as thousands of pores/tubes which will leak wine much the
way a tree moves sap. On conventional barrels the end boards are
perpendicular to the way the wood grows.
Also, be sure you don't use red oak, not only for its odor/taste, but
also because its pores are much more open than white oaks.
Another possible problem comes to mind. Oftentimes tree trunk sections
check (crack) severely in a radial manner upon drying. This could create
a fatal flaw for a barrel.
As a project, it might be worth a try, though.

HTH, Mike MTM

Mike MTM,
Good first point - I'd not thought of that. I wonder if I can decrease the
diameter of my end pieces such that they would fit inside the ends of the
"log" and use some banding method as hoops.

I have available (in the spring when my friend gets his oak cut down) a
white oak.

This was my first concern I thought of. I was thinking about 1) curing a
piece whole and do the process, 2) coring it then doing the process (the
ends will likely not fit then) and 3) also as I mentioned below. I wonder if
hooping in some manner would add enough hoop strength to keep any splits to
stay confined to the inside of the barrel. Maybe I'll try that first and if
it works consider not using them on the next.

I forgot to mention to everyone that this is _to make vinegar_ (long enough
and I may have balsamic), not to age my wine. If I get it figured out, maybe
I'll be making small barrels ("barriques"?) for 20 bucks.

Thanks for the feedback. Great catch on the grain orientation!


Patrick

MikeMTM" > wrote in message
...
> Patrick,
>
> One problem is that the grain on the ends will be going the wrong way,
> It will act as thousands of pores/tubes which will leak wine much the
> way a tree moves sap. On conventional barrels the end boards are
> perpendicular to the way the wood grows.
> Also, be sure you don't use red oak, not only for its odor/taste, but
> also because its pores are much more open than white oaks.
> Another possible problem comes to mind. Oftentimes tree trunk sections
> check (crack) severely in a radial manner upon drying. This could create
> a fatal flaw for a barrel.
> As a project, it might be worth a try, though.
>
> HTH, Mike MTM
>
>

"Patrick McDonald" > wrote in
message ...
> Mike MTM,
> Good first point - I'd not thought of that. I wonder if I can decrease the
> diameter of my end pieces such that they would fit inside the ends of the
> "log" and use some banding method as hoops.
You need to turn the grain so that it is running from side to side, not
end-on as the discs will be.
Also, don't use glue of any sort - it will be leached into the vinegar/wine.
To achieve a good seal, coopers use linseed meal and/or rushes (the rushes
swell and seal up cracks).
>
> This was my first concern I thought of. I was thinking about 1) curing a
> piece whole and do the process, 2) coring it then doing the process (the
Coopers season oak for 2-3 years before making barrels out of the wood,
mainly to remove moisture, but also to soften off some of the more
aggressive cut-timber characters. When are you planning on building this
barrel? :-)

Cheers,

Andrew