In the past I've made wine from kit-concentrates and
also country wines from fruit. Last August the local
(uk) s/market were doing deals on breakfast juices, so
I bought a gallon of white grape juice (not a
concentrate, but pasteurised).

The sg was 1066, bubble trap finished on day 7, cleared
day 10, bottled day 14. Nice and clear, goodish quality
table wine, slight effervescence, but boy was it dry!!

Next attempt was with a gallon of white and also red.
The red has not been pasteurised, but has a good deep
colour, so must have been left some time on the skins,
before extraction -
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ldframe004.jpg
To overcome the extreme dryness, I added 1.5lbs sugar
per gallon. Only problem, instead of taking a week to
stop, it's taken 6 weeks, it's only marginally drier
and still has an effervescence.

Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
cheaper. TIA.

Bertie

Bertie Doe wrote:
> In the past I've made wine from kit-concentrates and also country wines
> from fruit. Last August the local (uk) s/market were doing deals on
> breakfast juices, so I bought a gallon of white grape juice (not a
> concentrate, but pasteurised).
>
> The sg was 1066, bubble trap finished on day 7, cleared day 10, bottled
> day 14. Nice and clear, goodish quality table wine, slight
> effervescence, but boy was it dry!!
>
> Next attempt was with a gallon of white and also red. The red has not
> been pasteurised, but has a good deep colour, so must have been left
> some time on the skins, before extraction -
> http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ldframe004.jpg
>
> To overcome the extreme dryness, I added 1.5lbs sugar per gallon. Only
> problem, instead of taking a week to stop, it's taken 6 weeks, it's only
> marginally drier and still has an effervescence.
>
> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus leave some sugar in
> solution, but avoid a secondary?
> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY method seems a lot
> tastier and is a hell of a lot cheaper. TIA.
>
> Bertie

Jack Keller has some useful information about this topic:

http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp under the topic "Stopping
Fermentation"

In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry", you have to either
force fermentation to stop (through a combination of sulfite and
sorbate), or pitch a yeast with a low alcohol toxicity such that it dies
before all the sugar is metabolized. The latter method is maddening
because yeast population dwindles slowly at the toxicity level.

Marshall

On Mar 25, 9:45*pm, Marshall Jose > wrote:
> Bertie Doe wrote:
> > In the past I've made wine from kit-concentrates and also country wines
> > from fruit. Last August the local (uk) s/market were doing deals on
> > breakfast juices, so I bought a gallon of white grape juice (not a
> > concentrate, but pasteurised).
>
> > The sg was 1066, bubble trap finished on day 7, cleared day 10, bottled
> > day 14. Nice and clear, goodish quality table wine, slight
> > effervescence, but boy was it dry!!
>
> > Next attempt was with a gallon of white and also red. The red has not
> > been pasteurised, but has a good deep colour, so must have been left
> > some time on the skins, before extraction -
> >http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...erallotmentcol...
>
> > To overcome the extreme dryness, I added 1.5lbs sugar per gallon. Only
> > problem, instead of taking a week to stop, it's taken 6 weeks, it's only
> > marginally drier and still has an effervescence.
>
> > Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus leave some sugar in
> > solution, but avoid a secondary?
> > I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY method seems a lot
> > tastier and is a hell of a lot cheaper. TIA.
>
> > Bertie
>
> Jack Keller has some useful information about this topic:
>
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.aspunder the topic "Stopping
> Fermentation"
>
> In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry", you have to either
> force fermentation to stop (through a combination of sulfite and
> sorbate), or pitch a yeast with a low alcohol toxicity such that it dies
> before all the sugar is metabolized. The latter method is maddening
> because yeast population dwindles slowly at the toxicity level.
>
> Marshall

Everyone I hear these days tend towards fermenting the wine dry - at
whatever strength they desire, then adding sorbate and sugar to taste
(or just an artificial sweetener without sulphite and sorbate).

Jim

On 24 Mar, 16:30, "Bertie Doe" > wrote:
> In the past I've made wine from kit-concentrates and
> also country wines from fruit. Last August the local
> (uk) s/market were doing deals on breakfast juices, so
> I bought a gallon of white grape juice (not a
> concentrate, but pasteurised).
>
> The sg was 1066, bubble trap finished on day 7, cleared
> day 10, bottled day 14. Nice and clear, goodish quality
> table wine, slight effervescence, but boy was it dry!!
>
> Next attempt was with a gallon of white and also red.
> The red has not been pasteurised, but has a good deep
> colour, so must have been left some time on the skins,
> before extraction -http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd220/BertieDoe/Beaverallotmentcol...
> To overcome the extreme dryness, I added 1.5lbs sugar
> per gallon. Only problem, instead of taking a week to
> stop, it's taken 6 weeks, it's only marginally drier
> and still has an effervescence.
>
> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
> leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
> method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
> cheaper. TIA.
>

I've had problems stopping fermentation too but my preferred choice is
dry anyway.

McKevvy (UK)

"Marshall Jose" <wrote in message
> Bertie Doe wrote:
<snip>
>> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
>> leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
>> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
>> method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
>> cheaper. TIA.
>>
>> Bertie
>
> Jack Keller has some useful information about this
> topic:
>
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp under
> the topic "Stopping Fermentation"
>
> In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry",
> you have to either force fermentation to stop
> (through a combination of sulfite and sorbate), or
> pitch a yeast with a low alcohol toxicity such that
> it dies before all the sugar is metabolized. The
> latter method is maddening because yeast population
> dwindles slowly at the toxicity level.
>
> Marshall

Thanks Marshall, that article is exactly what I needed
to know "Camden tablet + stabilizer"
I like the bit which suggests waiting another 10 days
for the dead yeast cells to settle out.

"jim c" > wrote in message
On Mar 25, 9:45 pm, Marshall Jose wrote:
> Jack Keller has some useful information about this
> topic:
>
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.aspunder
> the topic "Stopping
> Fermentation"
>
>Everyone I hear these days tend towards fermenting
>the wine dry - at
whatever strength they desire, then adding sorbate and
sugar to taste
(or just an artificial sweetener without sulphite and
sorbate).

>Jim

Thanks Jim, in Oct '08 my neighbour gave me an old
recipe for Elderberry Port. 6lb fruit, 5lb sugar to
make 2 gals. Nice port style but too sweet. The
following year I reduced to 3lb and it was too dry, so
I added Lactose. I needed to added a lot and I didn't
like the aftertaste.
The early stopping sounds fave.

"McKevvy" <wrote in message

> I've had problems stopping fermentation too but my
> preferred choice is
> dry anyway.
>
> McKevvy (UK)

If you have a Morrison s/mkt in your area, it's well
worth trying their red and white OB grape juice. The
special offer has expired, but it's a good price at £5
per gallon. It's NOT in their chilled section BTW.

Bertie

On Mar 24, 12:30*pm, "Bertie Doe" > wrote:
> In the past I've made wine from kit-concentrates and
> also country wines from fruit. Last August the local
> (uk) s/market were doing deals on breakfast juices, so
> I bought a gallon of white grape juice (not a
> concentrate, but pasteurised).
>
> The sg was 1066, bubble trap finished on day 7, cleared
> day 10, bottled day 14. Nice and clear, goodish quality
> table wine, slight effervescence, but boy was it dry!!
>
> Next attempt was with a gallon of white and also red.
> The red has not been pasteurised, but has a good deep
> colour, so must have been left some time on the skins,
> before extraction -http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd220/BertieDoe/Beaverallotmentcol...
> To overcome the extreme dryness, I added 1.5lbs sugar
> per gallon. Only problem, instead of taking a week to
> stop, it's taken 6 weeks, it's only marginally drier
> and still has an effervescence.
>
> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
> leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
> method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
> cheaper. TIA.
>
> Bertie

Stopping fermentation is very hard.
Wineries usually let it ferment dry and then Backsweeten and even add
a f-pac to some. This is what a homw winemaker should do. I make alot
of fresh fruit wines and do just that. Let it go dry, add f-pac then
backsweeten
Tom
Home of the
Moon River Brewery
and
Delanco Vineyards

On 27 Mar, 22:31, "Bertie Doe" > wrote:
> "McKevvy" <wrote in message
>
> > I've had problems stopping fermentation too but my
> > preferred choice is
> > dry anyway.
>
> > McKevvy (UK)
>
> If you have a Morrison s/mkt in your area, it's well
> worth trying their red and white OB grape juice. The
> special offer has expired, but it's a good price at £5
> per gallon. It's NOT in their chilled section BTW.
>
> Bertie

There is one relatively near me, thanks Bertie. I'll give it a try :~)

McK.

On Mar 24, 12:30 pm, "Bertie Doe" > wrote:
> In the past I've made wine from kit-concentrates and
> also country wines from fruit. Last August the local
> (uk) s/market were doing deals on breakfast juices, so
> I bought a gallon of white grape juice (not a
> concentrate, but pasteurised).
>
> The sg was 1066, bubble trap finished on day 7, cleared
> day 10, bottled day 14. Nice and clear, goodish quality
> table wine, slight effervescence, but boy was it dry!!
>
> Next attempt was with a gallon of white and also red.
> The red has not been pasteurised, but has a good deep
> colour, so must have been left some time on the skins,
> before extraction -http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd220/BertieDoe/Beaverallotmentcol...
> To overcome the extreme dryness, I added 1.5lbs sugar
> per gallon. Only problem, instead of taking a week to
> stop, it's taken 6 weeks, it's only marginally drier
> and still has an effervescence.
>
> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
> leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
> method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
> cheaper. TIA.
>
> Bertie

I have had great luck with warming my wines to 165 to 170 degrees.
Medium heat as not to scorch anything.
Used an open 2-3 gallon pot, no lid, I guess one could put a lid on
until near the higher temps. Only held temps there for 2-5 minutes and
then put lid on, until cool enough to bottle. Back sweeten while wine
is hot. Helps dissolve sugars and kill off any other critters in
sugar. I have also done this with one gallon glass bottles.
When done heating I just added sugar, put cap back on bottle. wearing
oven mittens shook bottle to mix sugar.
Let cool on table.
Hope it gives ideas. Wine came out smooth and no headaches next day
after consumption. Had party to attend.
5 gallons got consumed..

Dave Whitney

"tepe" > wrote in message
...
> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
> leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
> method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
> cheaper. TIA.
>
> Bertie

Stopping fermentation is very hard.
Wineries usually let it ferment dry and then
Backsweeten and even add
a f-pac to some. This is what a homw winemaker should
do. I make alot
of fresh fruit wines and do just that. Let it go dry,
add f-pac then
backsweeten

Tom

Yep country wines ferment for-ever. Is f-pac lactose
based? I tried it in my elderberry and didn't like the
taste. OT. I love elderberry, I have a small plot 5yds
x 20yds (allotment) behind the house. Hedge suppliers
sell the European 2 year old plants for £1 each. I
split a pack with a neighbour, so I now have a 5 yard
row of plants. I would have preferred the slower
growing North American variety, but they're quite
pricey. Fingers crossed Oct 2011, should have enough
for a brew.

Bertie

"dave whitney" > wrote in message
> > I have had great luck with warming my wines to 165
to 170 degrees.
> Medium heat as not to scorch anything.
> Used an open 2-3 gallon pot, no lid, I guess one
> could put a lid on
> until near the higher temps. Only held temps there
> for 2-5 minutes and
> then put lid on, until cool enough to bottle. Back
> sweeten while wine
> is hot. Helps dissolve sugars and kill off any other
> critters in
> sugar. I have also done this with one gallon glass
> bottles.
> When done heating I just added sugar, put cap back on
> bottle. wearing
> oven mittens shook bottle to mix sugar.
> Let cool on table.
> Hope it gives ideas. Wine came out smooth and no
> headaches next day
> after consumption. Had party to attend.
> 5 gallons got consumed..
>
> Dave Whitney

Thanks Dave that's worth considering. I have a 2 gallon
capacity s/steel lidded stockpot. I've also got one of
those CDN thermometers, which is very accurate, it's
worth a try if the Camden + Stabilizer doesn't work.
This means that I could bottle grape at say day 12.
You're happy with 170F to bump off the yeast?

On Mar 30, 7:16*am, "Bertie Doe" > wrote:
> "tepe" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
> > Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
> > leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
> > I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
> > method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
> > cheaper. TIA.
>
> > Bertie
>
> Stopping fermentation is very hard.
> Wineries usually let it ferment dry and then
> Backsweeten and even add
> a f-pac to some. This is what a homw winemaker should
> do. I make alot
> of fresh fruit wines and do just that. Let it go dry,
> add f-pac then
> backsweeten
>
> Tom
>
> Yep country wines ferment for-ever. Is f-pac lactose
> based? I tried it in my elderberry and didn't like the
> taste. OT. I love elderberry, I have a small plot 5yds
> x 20yds (allotment) behind the house. Hedge suppliers
> sell the European 2 year old plants for £1 each. I
> split a pack with a neighbour, so I now have a 5 yard
> row of plants. I would have preferred the slower
> growing North American variety, but they're quite
> pricey. Fingers crossed Oct 2011, should have enough
> for a brew.
>
> Bertie

F-pac is
How to make a F-PAC
=
Flavor Pac


Add 20-30% of #’s of fruit what was used in the primary (if you used
30# in recipe then you will need 6-9# more for the f-pac) in a large
frying pan or pot. Simmer to extract all "flavor" and reduce the water
from the fruit. Strain thru a kitchen strainer and add AFTER you rack
and after the wine is DRY ( .990) You MUST have added k-meta and
Sorbate before adding the f-pac. Once adding the f-pac you can add
clearing agent. You will have to rack at least 2+ more times. Then
back sweeten to YOUR taste using simple syrup.

Tom

"tepe" > wrote in
F-pac is
How to make a F-PAC
=
Flavor Pac


Add 20-30% of #’s of fruit what was used in the primary
(if you used
30# in recipe then you will need 6-9# more for the
f-pac) in a large
frying pan or pot. Simmer to extract all "flavor" and
reduce the water
from the fruit. Strain thru a kitchen strainer and add
AFTER you rack
and after the wine is DRY ( .990) You MUST have added
k-meta and
Sorbate before adding the f-pac. Once adding the f-pac
you can add
clearing agent. You will have to rack at least 2+ more
times. Then
back sweeten to YOUR taste using simple syrup.

Tom

Thanks Tom that's all new to me. This is worth saving
to faves.

Bertie

"Marshall Jose" < wrote in message
> Bertie Doe wrote:
<<snip>>
>> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
>> leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a secondary?
>> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
>> method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
>> cheaper. TIA.
>>
>> Bertie
>
> Jack Keller has some useful information about this
> topic:
>
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp under
> the topic "Stopping Fermentation"
>
> In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry",
> you have to either force fermentation to stop
> (through a combination of sulfite and sorbate), or
> pitch a yeast with a low alcohol toxicity such that
> it dies before all the sugar is metabolized. The
> latter method is maddening because yeast population
> dwindles slowly at the toxicity level.
>
> Marshall

I bought some sulphate and sorbate yesterday and added
to both wines. The white (which is older) stopped
within a few hours, the younger more active red, took
about 20 hours to stop. Thanks again for the Jack
Keller link, I'll follow the advice and wait another 10
days for the dead cells to drop.

Bertie

>
> Thanks Dave that's worth considering. I have a 2 gallon
> capacity s/steel lidded stockpot. I've also got one of
> those CDN thermometers, which is very accurate, it's
> worth a try if the Camden + Stabilizer doesn't work.
> This means that I could bottle grape at say day 12.
> You're happy with 170F to bump off the yeast?

I just chose 170F, for that is the vapor/boiling point area of
ethanol.
140 -150 for 10 to 20 minutes will kill alot of critters.
Plus I wanted to be on safe side.
This is also an old "artificial" way to age and smooth alcholic
products.
Important note. do not stand over pot as it warms up. I got one hell
of a headache.
I know some else that dose this and he uses a fan to blow vapor
away..
Have fun.
Dave Whitney

"dave whitney" > wrote in message
...
>
>>
>> Thanks Dave that's worth considering. I have a 2
>> gallon
>> capacity s/steel lidded stockpot. I've also got one
>> of
>> those CDN thermometers, which is very accurate, it's
>> worth a try if the Camden + Stabilizer doesn't work.
>> This means that I could bottle grape at say day 12.
>> You're happy with 170F to bump off the yeast?
>
> I just chose 170F, for that is the vapor/boiling
> point area of
> ethanol.
> 140 -150 for 10 to 20 minutes will kill alot of
> critters.
> Plus I wanted to be on safe side.
> This is also an old "artificial" way to age and
> smooth alcholic
> products.
> Important note. do not stand over pot as it warms up.
> I got one hell
> of a headache.
> I know some else that dose this and he uses a fan to
> blow vapor
> away..
> Have fun.
> Dave Whitney

It's important I try the heating method of yeast
zapping on my next batch of red and white. Allow it to
age for a few months and compare the two.
I doubt whether I will detect Tuesday's addition of
Sodium Metabisulphite and Potassium Sorbate.
My taste buds aren't very sensitive, I roast my own
coffee and have great difficulty in identifying which
varietals or region the coffee is from. But I don't
envy pro wine tasters' super sensitive palate, you
would find way too many faults. Mind you, they get
loadsa free wine to compensate!!
Bertie

On Mar 27, 10:25*pm, "Bertie Doe" > wrote:
> "jim c" > wrote in message
>
> On Mar 25, 9:45 pm, Marshall Jose wrote:> Jack Keller has some useful information about this
> > topic:
>
> >http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.aspunder
> > the topic "Stopping
> > Fermentation"
>
> >Everyone I hear these days tend towards fermenting
> >the wine dry - at
>
> whatever strength *they desire, then adding sorbate and
> sugar to taste
> (or just an artificial sweetener without sulphite and
> sorbate).
>
> >Jim
>
> Thanks Jim, in Oct '08 my neighbour gave me an old
> recipe for Elderberry Port. 6lb fruit, 5lb sugar to
> make 2 gals. Nice port style but too sweet. The
> following year I reduced to 3lb and it was too dry, so
> I added Lactose. I needed to added a lot and I didn't
> like the aftertaste.
> The early stopping sounds fave.

Why not add normal sugar mixed to solution in a quantity of the wine
or even glucose syrup to backsweeten after adding sorbate instead of
the lactose? I wonder if the idea of the lactose was to attempt some
kind of malolactic activity?

Jim

In article
>,
jim c > wrote:

> On Mar 27, 10:25*pm, "Bertie Doe" > wrote:
> > "jim c" > wrote in message
> >
> > On Mar 25, 9:45 pm, Marshall Jose wrote:> Jack Keller has some useful
> > information about this
> > > topic:
> >
> > >http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.aspunder
> > > the topic "Stopping
> > > Fermentation"
> >
> > >Everyone I hear these days tend towards fermenting
> > >the wine dry - at
> >
> > whatever strength *they desire, then adding sorbate and
> > sugar to taste
> > (or just an artificial sweetener without sulphite and
> > sorbate).
> >
> > >Jim
> >
> > Thanks Jim, in Oct '08 my neighbour gave me an old
> > recipe for Elderberry Port. 6lb fruit, 5lb sugar to
> > make 2 gals. Nice port style but too sweet. The
> > following year I reduced to 3lb and it was too dry, so
> > I added Lactose. I needed to added a lot and I didn't
> > like the aftertaste.
> > The early stopping sounds fave.
>
> Why not add normal sugar mixed to solution in a quantity of the wine
> or even glucose syrup to backsweeten after adding sorbate instead of
> the lactose? I wonder if the idea of the lactose was to attempt some
> kind of malolactic activity?
>
> Jim

Ya know, Louis M. Martini Winery, St. Helena, CA. used to keep its
Moscato Amabile refrigerated to keep it from fermenting.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

"Bertie Doe" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Marshall Jose" < wrote in message
>> Bertie Doe wrote:
> <<snip>>
>>> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus
>>> leave some sugar in solution, but avoid a
>>> secondary?
>>> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
>>> method seems a lot tastier and is a hell of a lot
>>> cheaper. TIA.
>>>
>>> Bertie
>>
>> Jack Keller has some useful information about this
>> topic:
>>
>> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp under
>> the topic "Stopping Fermentation"
>>
>> In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry",
>> you have to either force fermentation to stop
>> (through a combination of sulfite and sorbate), or
>> pitch a yeast with a low alcohol toxicity such that
>> it dies before all the sugar is metabolized. The
>> latter method is maddening because yeast population
>> dwindles slowly at the toxicity level.
>>
>> Marshall
>
> I bought some sulphate and sorbate yesterday and
> added to both wines. The white (which is older)
> stopped within a few hours, the younger more active
> red, took about 20 hours to stop. Thanks again for
> the Jack Keller link, I'll follow the advice and wait
> another 10 days for the dead cells to drop.
>
> Bertie

Update : 10 days later, the white was gin clear, but
both the white and red had re-started. Activity is very
slow - one bubble per day white and about 4 bubbles per
day from the red.

I don't want to add another camden tab, so I will
follow Dave W suggestion and raise temp to 150F.

Bertie

On 4/29/2010 4:55 AM, Bertie Doe wrote:
>
> "Bertie Doe" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> "Marshall Jose" < wrote in message
>>> Bertie Doe wrote:
>> <<snip>>
>>>> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus leave some sugar
>>>> in solution, but avoid a secondary?
>>>> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY method seems a lot
>>>> tastier and is a hell of a lot cheaper. TIA.
>>>>
>>>> Bertie
>>>
>>> Jack Keller has some useful information about this topic:
>>>
>>> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp under the topic
>>> "Stopping Fermentation"
>>>
>>> In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry", you have to either
>>> force fermentation to stop (through a combination of sulfite and
>>> sorbate), or pitch a yeast with a low alcohol toxicity such that it
>>> dies before all the sugar is metabolized. The latter method is
>>> maddening because yeast population dwindles slowly at the toxicity
>>> level.
>>>
>>> Marshall
>>
>> I bought some sulphate and sorbate yesterday and added to both wines.
>> The white (which is older) stopped within a few hours, the younger
>> more active red, took about 20 hours to stop. Thanks again for the
>> Jack Keller link, I'll follow the advice and wait another 10 days for
>> the dead cells to drop.
>>
>> Bertie
>
> Update : 10 days later, the white was gin clear, but both the white and
> red had re-started. Activity is very slow - one bubble per day white and
> about 4 bubbles per day from the red.
>
> I don't want to add another camden tab, so I will follow Dave W
> suggestion and raise temp to 150F.
>
> Bertie

It may not have restarted. That is likely residual co2 you're seeing
bubble out.

I would degas before doing anything else to it.

"BobF" > wrote in message
...
> On 4/29/2010 4:55 AM, Bertie Doe wrote:
>>
>> "Bertie Doe" > wrote in
>> message
>> ...
>>>
>>> "Marshall Jose" < wrote in message
>>>> Bertie Doe wrote:
>>> <<snip>>
>>>>> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and
>>>>> thus leave some sugar
>>>>> in solution, but avoid a secondary?
>>>>> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY
>>>>> method seems a lot
>>>>> tastier and is a hell of a lot cheaper. TIA.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bertie
>>>>
>>>> Jack Keller has some useful information about this
>>>> topic:
>>>>
>>>> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp
>>>> under the topic
>>>> "Stopping Fermentation"
>>>>
>>>> In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry",
>>>> you have to either
>>>> force fermentation to stop (through a combination
>>>> of sulfite and
>>>> sorbate), or pitch a yeast with a low alcohol
>>>> toxicity such that it
>>>> dies before all the sugar is metabolized. The
>>>> latter method is
>>>> maddening because yeast population dwindles slowly
>>>> at the toxicity
>>>> level.
>>>>
>>>> Marshall
>>>
>>> I bought some sulphate and sorbate yesterday and
>>> added to both wines.
>>> The white (which is older) stopped within a few
>>> hours, the younger
>>> more active red, took about 20 hours to stop.
>>> Thanks again for the
>>> Jack Keller link, I'll follow the advice and wait
>>> another 10 days for
>>> the dead cells to drop.
>>>
>>> Bertie
>>
>> Update : 10 days later, the white was gin clear, but
>> both the white and
>> red had re-started. Activity is very slow - one
>> bubble per day white and
>> about 4 bubbles per day from the red.
>>
>> I don't want to add another camden tab, so I will
>> follow Dave W
>> suggestion and raise temp to 150F.
>>
>> Bertie
>
> It may not have restarted. That is likely residual
> co2 you're seeing bubble out.
>
> I would degas before doing anything else to it.

Degassing, is this done by racking? Neither wine has
been racked, as I'm always a bit nervous about
contamination.

On 4/29/2010 2:43 PM, Bertie Doe wrote:
>
> "BobF" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 4/29/2010 4:55 AM, Bertie Doe wrote:
>>>
>>> "Bertie Doe" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>>
>>>> "Marshall Jose" < wrote in message
>>>>> Bertie Doe wrote:
>>>> <<snip>>
>>>>>> Any ideas on how to stop the wine earlier and thus leave some sugar
>>>>>> in solution, but avoid a secondary?
>>>>>> I didn't have this problem with kits, but the DIY method seems a lot
>>>>>> tastier and is a hell of a lot cheaper. TIA.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bertie
>>>>>
>>>>> Jack Keller has some useful information about this topic:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/finishin.asp under the topic
>>>>> "Stopping Fermentation"
>>>>>
>>>>> In order to end up with a wine which is "not dry", you have to either
>>>>> force fermentation to stop (through a combination of sulfite and
>>>>> sorbate), or pitch a yeast with a low alcohol toxicity such that it
>>>>> dies before all the sugar is metabolized. The latter method is
>>>>> maddening because yeast population dwindles slowly at the toxicity
>>>>> level.
>>>>>
>>>>> Marshall
>>>>
>>>> I bought some sulphate and sorbate yesterday and added to both wines.
>>>> The white (which is older) stopped within a few hours, the younger
>>>> more active red, took about 20 hours to stop. Thanks again for the
>>>> Jack Keller link, I'll follow the advice and wait another 10 days for
>>>> the dead cells to drop.
>>>>
>>>> Bertie
>>>
>>> Update : 10 days later, the white was gin clear, but both the white and
>>> red had re-started. Activity is very slow - one bubble per day white and
>>> about 4 bubbles per day from the red.
>>>
>>> I don't want to add another camden tab, so I will follow Dave W
>>> suggestion and raise temp to 150F.
>>>
>>> Bertie
>>
>> It may not have restarted. That is likely residual co2 you're seeing
>> bubble out.
>>
>> I would degas before doing anything else to it.
>
> Degassing, is this done by racking? Neither wine has been racked, as I'm
> always a bit nervous about contamination.
>
>

vigorous stirring and vacuum are the most popular methods. Racking does
degas some due to the siphon action.

"BobF" > wrote in message
...
> On 4/29/2010 2:43 PM, Bertie Doe wrote:
>>
>> Degassing, is this done by racking? Neither wine has
>> been racked, as I'm
>> always a bit nervous about contamination.
>>
> vigorous stirring and vacuum are the most popular
> methods. Racking does degas some due to the siphon
> action.

Thanks Bob I'll give that a try. The irony is that my
first batch of white, I added no sugar and it stopped
after 10 days!!

On 4/30/2010 6:34 PM, Bertie Doe wrote:
>
> "BobF" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 4/29/2010 2:43 PM, Bertie Doe wrote:
>>>
>>> Degassing, is this done by racking? Neither wine has been racked, as I'm
>>> always a bit nervous about contamination.
>>>
>> vigorous stirring and vacuum are the most popular methods. Racking
>> does degas some due to the siphon action.
>
> Thanks Bob I'll give that a try. The irony is that my first batch of
> white, I added no sugar and it stopped after 10 days!!

In my experience, every batch is unique!