Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two 49oz
cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
stirred well.

Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack Keller.net
says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out and
leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
fermenter bucket?

Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
carboy.

Thanks

Opinion is pretty well split down the middle on this. People also say that
there is enough oxygen in the must ( in the water and added by the mixing
and splashing ) to provide the yeast with a good reproductive bath!

In my earlier days I used to cover my fermenting bin with a muslin cloth (
to keep out bugs etc) but these days all my wines be it kits or country
wines go into a fermenting bucket which has a tight fitting ( and sealed)
lid with a fermentation lock. If there is a need for more oxygen with
country wines then they get it when I punch the cap down daily. But all my
wines made from juices of various kinds are under a fermentation lock from
day 1.

And it works -- so there must be enough oxygen in the must ( pun intended!).
Not yet had a failure to ferment out! I also like the idea that my must is
well protected by a CO2 blanket which itself is protected by a secure
fermentation lock right from the start.

Now that hasn't really helped has it! ;-}

--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two 49oz
> cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
> enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
> stirred well.
>
> Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
> primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack Keller.net
> says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
> reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out and
> leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
> fermenter bucket?
>
> Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
> carboy.
>
> Thanks
>

What do you mean by "punch the cap down daily"? Am I supposed to do
something daily to it? I didn't think I was.

No you have no cap to punch down!

That refers to when you are making wine out of fruits and during the first
week of fermentation the CO2 gas escaping from the must forces all the fruit
to float to the top and creates a "cap" -- i.e. made out of all the fruit.
It is necessary to push this cap down back into the must and break it up
every day so that all the goodies are extracted by the fermentation process!

You are making wine out of just juices and there will be no "cap" to
worry about.

--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
Remove "PSANTISPAM" from my address line to reply.
All outgoing mail is scanned by Norton
Anti Virus for your protection too!
> wrote in message
oups.com...
> What do you mean by "punch the cap down daily"? Am I supposed to do
> something daily to it? I didn't think I was.
>

On 6 Mar 2005 18:40:05 -0800, wrote:

> Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two 49oz
> cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
> enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
> stirred well.
>
> Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
> primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack Keller.net
> says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
> reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out and
> leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
> fermenter bucket?

The books I have read on the subject are not unanimous, but most
recommend that the primary fermenter should allow oxygen in to get
the production of yeast going well; after a large population of
yeast forms (two or three days), then cut off air supply. When
atmospheric oxygen is available, the sugars and oxygen in the must
will be used to create more yeast; when the atmospheric oxygen is
cut off, the sugar and oxygen in the must will go into alcohol and
carbon dioxide production.

If you have five gallons of must in a seven or eight gallon
wide-mouth container, a loosely fitting lid on the container will
keep out dust and bugs. When left undisturned, the space between
the surface of the must and the lid will be filled with carbon
dioxide and will cut off atmospheric oxygen fairly well (that's
how the ancient peoples used to ferment juice). Once the furious
initial bubbling seems to be decreasing, then give a good stir and
put an air lock on it.

But then, I have never made any wine, so my suggestions are purely
book-reading.

> Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
> carboy.
>
> Thanks

---
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"Nothing can excel a few days in jail for giving a young man or woman a
quick education in the basis of industrial society." -- Edward Abbey

*"But then, I have never made any wine, so my suggestions are purely
book-reading."*

I bow to your obvious superior knowledge. I have only been making wine for
about 35 years.

--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
Remove "PSANTISPAM" from my address line to reply.
All outgoing mail is scanned by Norton
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<desertphile@hot mail. com (Desertphile, American Patriot)> wrote in message
...
>
> <snip><snip>

>
> The books I have read on the subject are not unanimous,
<snip><snip>
>
> But then, I have never made any wine, so my suggestions are purely
> book-reading.
>
>> Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
>> carboy.
>>
>> Thanks
>
> ---
> http://lastliberal.org
> Free random & sequential signature changer http://holysmoke.org/sig
>
> "Nothing can excel a few days in jail for giving a young man or woman a
> quick education in the basis of industrial society." -- Edward Abbey

You come to the expert armatures and you get no consensus. For my part, I
vote with Jack. The first few days of fermentation are probably going to be
very vigorous and you need a lot of head space so the method I was taught is
to keep it in a food safe bucket about twice the volume of the must. This
allows air to get to the must AND it prevents a major mess. Then when
fermentation slows down and it is important to keep air away from the must I
rack to a secondary with a small head space and use an airlock.

I recommend that you find an easy to follow, easy to read, and well accepted
book that outlines the basics of winemaking. It will probably have the
basics on a few pages. Follow these procedures at least for your first few
batches. Another good way to start is to make a few kit batches. They give
very specific instructions and will get you following some good basic rules.
Incidentally, all kits I have seen follow the open air method.

Ray

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two 49oz
> cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
> enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
> stirred well.
>
> Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
> primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack Keller.net
> says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
> reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out and
> leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
> fermenter bucket?
>
> Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
> carboy.
>
> Thanks
>

Not the ones I use! Including Winexpert.

But Ray is just as sensible as am I ( well most of the time). What it does
show is that wine, during its

But this really is an area where there is a deal of disagreement between all
sorts of winemakers -- even commercial winemakers do "closed" fermentations.
All I can say is that I have never have a failed fermentation -- not ever. I
have used both methods ( and I never had an "infection" when I just covered
with muslin for the first week.)
But if you are use just Juice I would prefer the closed method

So who is right. In the end the process of making wine is amazingly
resilient anyway. As I have said, in a roundabout way, I haven't had a
failure in either way -- so why take the risk

In the end I strongly suggest that you follow the instructions implicitly in
the wine kit instructions -- they are generally foolproof from old and bold
wine makers -- and they work!


--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
Remove "PSANTISPAM" from my address line to reply.
All outgoing mail is scanned by Norton
Anti Virus for your protection too!
"Ray Calvert" > wrote in message
. ..
> You come to the expert armatures and you get no consensus. For my part, I
> vote with Jack. The first few days of fermentation are probably going to
> be very vigorous and you need a lot of head space so the method I was
> taught is to keep it in a food safe bucket about twice the volume of the
> must. This allows air to get to the must AND it prevents a major mess.
> Then when fermentation slows down and it is important to keep air away
> from the must I rack to a secondary with a small head space and use an
> airlock.
>
> I recommend that you find an easy to follow, easy to read, and well
> accepted book that outlines the basics of winemaking. It will probably
> have the basics on a few pages. Follow these procedures at least for your
> first few batches. Another good way to start is to make a few kit
> batches. They give very specific instructions and will get you following
> some good basic rules. Incidentally, all kits I have seen follow the open
> air method.
>
> Ray
>
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>> Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two 49oz
>> cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
>> enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
>> stirred well.
>>
>> Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
>> primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack Keller.net
>> says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
>> reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out and
>> leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
>> fermenter bucket?
>>
>> Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
>> carboy.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>
>

"pinky" > wrote in message
. ..
> Not the ones I use! Including Winexpert.
>
> But Ray is just as sensible as am I ( well most of the time). What it does
> show is that wine, during its

Thank You Trevor (I think?)

THere are differences of oppinion here, but, as you say, wine making is an
amazingly forgiving hoby. But as both Trevor and I have suggested, pick a
reputable set of instructions, as in a kit instructions or a good book, and
follow them to get started. There are many ways to make wine. But you
should be carefull about mixing methods untill you know what you are doing.

Ray

>

I agree with what's been said previously, but I would just add a note of
caution about some juices out there. Just watch to make sure your
fermentation starts within the first 24 hours. If it does, then don't worry
about it. I've noticed with some frozen concentrate juices that they are
adding something to the juice, which slows or prevents fermentation in a
closed container (with a bung & airlock) but works better in an open
container (covered in plastic, which you can stir and allow access to
oxygen) & yeast energizer. Now, I don't use regular Welch's juice or other
juices, so I don't know if the company has been adding stuff to those juices
which would slow or prevent fermentation. Good-luck.
Darlene
Wisconsin

"Ray Calvert" > wrote in message
...
>
> "pinky" > wrote in message
> . ..
>> Not the ones I use! Including Winexpert.
>>
>> But Ray is just as sensible as am I ( well most of the time). What it
>> does show is that wine, during its
>
> Thank You Trevor (I think?)
>
> THere are differences of oppinion here, but, as you say, wine making is an
> amazingly forgiving hoby. But as both Trevor and I have suggested, pick a
> reputable set of instructions, as in a kit instructions or a good book,
> and follow them to get started. There are many ways to make wine. But
> you should be carefull about mixing methods untill you know what you are
> doing.
>
> Ray
>
>>
>
>

OK. One last question. How often can I pop the lid on the primary
fermenter bucket and look at it? Is it OK to do this every few days or
will that be a bad thing?

If there are bubbles being pushed through the airlock, that means your
fermentation is going. So I wouldn't open it up, until the bubbling in the
airlock slows way down and you're ready to rack to a secondary container
with very little head space. Do you have a hydrometer? Do you know what your
starting SG is? If your airlock isn't bubbling within the first 24 hours, I
would pop it open to see what's going on. If it is foaming a little bit then
your fermentation may be just slow. If nothing is happening, then get back
to us. I do stir my wine made from frozen juice concentrates twice a day,
that's why I don't use an bung & airlock on my primary ferments, but that's
my preference. Hope this makes sense.
Darlene
Wisconsin

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> OK. One last question. How often can I pop the lid on the primary
> fermenter bucket and look at it? Is it OK to do this every few days or
> will that be a bad thing?
>

Hi Russ,

As long as it is early in the primary fermentation, and you have vigorous
bubbling, there is no harm in "popping the lid" as often as you want,
because carbon dioxide is providing a protective layer over your wine (just
dont take too deep a sniff!). When the bubbling becomes less vigorous,
there is less carbon dioxide to protect the wine, so you should do fewer
inspections. When the bubbling begins to calm down, you should use your
hydrometer to take a specific gravity reading. When it is down to 1.005 SG
(or about 1 degree Brix) you should rack it to your secondary fermentor,
fill to the top and put on an airlock.

Best Regards,

Gary
Charlotte, North Carolina

http://home.carolina.rr.com/winemaking/

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> OK. One last question. How often can I pop the lid on the primary
> fermenter bucket and look at it? Is it OK to do this every few days or
> will that be a bad thing?
>

I don't have my notes here, but last month we were given a seminar by
Clayton Cone, the yeast guru at Lalvin, and from what I remember he
recommended 2 days or so of open air contact for best fermentation
results. This doesn't mean closed ferment wouldn't work, just that free
air contact is safer, especially for tricky musts.

Pp

Ray Calvert wrote:
> You come to the expert armatures and you get no consensus. For my
part, I
> vote with Jack. The first few days of fermentation are probably
going to be
> very vigorous and you need a lot of head space so the method I was
taught is
> to keep it in a food safe bucket about twice the volume of the must.
This
> allows air to get to the must AND it prevents a major mess. Then
when
> fermentation slows down and it is important to keep air away from the
must I
> rack to a secondary with a small head space and use an airlock.
>
> I recommend that you find an easy to follow, easy to read, and well
accepted
> book that outlines the basics of winemaking. It will probably have
the
> basics on a few pages. Follow these procedures at least for your
first few
> batches. Another good way to start is to make a few kit batches.
They give
> very specific instructions and will get you following some good basic
rules.
> Incidentally, all kits I have seen follow the open air method.
>
> Ray
>
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> > Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two
49oz
> > cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
> > enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
> > stirred well.
> >
> > Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
> > primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack
Keller.net
> > says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
> > reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out
and
> > leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
> > fermenter bucket?
> >
> > Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
> > carboy.
> >
> > Thanks
> >

Russ,

I think Ray said the most important thing, and that is to make sure you
have plenty of space in your carboy to accomodate the fermentaion. It
also depends on the yeast you used. Some foam A LOT and you need a lot
of head space, some don't foam at all and you can get away with less
but I wouldn't worry too much about air getting to your ferment if it
is in a carboy. There will be so much CO2 in the carboy while
fermentation is going on, oxygen will not be able to get near the top
of the must. I've never had any problems fermenting in "open"
containers. Just monitor the fermentation and decrase the headspace as
the fermentation slows down.

Bob

wrote:
> OK. One last question. How often can I pop the lid on the primary
> fermenter bucket and look at it? Is it OK to do this every few days
or
> will that be a bad thing?

When the fermentation is really going I like to stick my head really
close to the top of the must and inhale until I almost pass out.
Firstly, I love the smell of fermentation and I suggest you experience
it also and secondly, if you almost pass out that meansa there is
plenty of CO2 protecting the wine so you don't have to worry. Actually,
I use this test everyday and decide to rack to secondary based on my
smell tests. I know most won't recommend that technique , but it works
for me. Never had a wine oxidize yet.

Bob

I used 1 packet of "premier cuvee" in my 5 gallon blueberry wine batch.
I rehydrated it in warm water and then mixed it in before putting the
lid on.

On 6 Mar 2005 18:40:05 -0800, wrote:

>Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two 49oz
>cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
>enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
>stirred well.
>
>Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
>primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack Keller.net
>says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
>reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out and
>leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
>fermenter bucket?
>
>Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
>carboy.
>
>Thanks

Fruit Wine Recipes using Real Fruit Puree There are many ways to make
wine with the purees. It comes down to personal preference. Oregon
Fruit Products one gallon recipe (see chart) calls for one can of
puree with enough sugar to bring the original gravity to 1.090 or
higher. This produces a wine with an alcohol level of 12% by volume
and will remain stable for a long time

To make a fiuit wine comparable to using a 96 oz. can of wine base,
use two cans of Oregon Fruit Products Puree per five gallons and
enough sugar to bring the gravity to 1.090 or higher. Add natural
fruit flavoring enhancers to bring out flavor and give more aroma.
Add sugar gradually both initially and for sweetening. Add 1/2 the
initial sugar and take a gravity reading or taste if you are
sweetening a finished wine before adding the rest. This will insure
that your wine doesn't come out too strong. Fermentation will stop
automatically, but wine must be stabilized with potassium sorbate if
sugar is added after fermentation for sweetening. This will prevent
renewed fermentation.
Use an open plastic bucket for a fermenter. For one gallon batches it
is best to use a two gallon bucket and for five gallon batches, use a
seven gallon bucket. Sterilize your fermenter and any equipment that
will come into contact with the must. Dissolve the sugar and additives
in a quart of warm water. Add the fruit puree and enough water to
equal one gallon total volume. Add the other ingredients except the
yeast. Stir well. Take a gravity reading. The must should be between
1.090 and 1.100. If it is lower, add enough sugar to bring the gravity
up. Approximately 4 oz. of sugar will raise the gravity 10 points in
one gallon of water. Make up a yeast starter using Red Star Cote Des
Blancs or Lalvin 71B-1122 yeast and add to the must. If your bucket
does not include a lid, cover the fermenter with cheese cloth or a
fine nylon mesh straining bag. This allows the must to breathe. Stir
must every day for 5 to 7 days (until the gravity is about 1.030).
Rack into a sterilized one gallon jug or three gallon glass carboy
(depending on volume made). Attach an airlock and ferment for 2 to 4
weeks or until fermentation is complete. The gravity reading should be
1.000 or lower. Rack wine off the sediment into another sterilized
gallon jug or glass carboy. Add a fining agent according to directions
and let set for 4 weeks. The wine can be bottled when it is clear and
stable.
For a sweeter wine, dissolve 2 to 4 teaspoons of sugar in 1/4 cup warm
water. Add 1/2 teaspoon potassium sorbate to the wine and then add the
sugar mixture to wine.

Oops... That came from http://www.leeners.com/fruitwinerecipes.html

On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 21:51:10 -0900, A. J. Rawls
> wrote:

>On 6 Mar 2005 18:40:05 -0800, wrote:
>
>>Im new to winemaking and making my very first batch. I used two 49oz
>>cans of oregon blueberry puree, 10lbs of sugar, warm water, pectic
>>enzyme, acid blend, grape tannin, super yeast, and wine yeast. I
>>stirred well.
>>
>>Now, the place I bought the stuff said to put the airlock on the
>>primary fermenter as soon as I am done mixing it up. Jack Keller.net
>>says to let it sit for 48-72 hours to assist the yeast in rapid
>>reproduction. Which is correct? Should I go pull the airlock out and
>>leave the airlock hole open to allow oxygen to get in the primary
>>fermenter bucket?
>>
>>Any other advice? In 5-7 days I'm going to syphon it into my 5 gal
>>carboy.
>>
>>Thanks
>
>Fruit Wine Recipes using Real Fruit Puree There are many ways to make
>wine with the purees. It comes down to personal preference. Oregon
>Fruit Products one gallon recipe (see chart) calls for one can of
>puree with enough sugar to bring the original gravity to 1.090 or
>higher. This produces a wine with an alcohol level of 12% by volume
>and will remain stable for a long time
>
>To make a fiuit wine comparable to using a 96 oz. can of wine base,
>use two cans of Oregon Fruit Products Puree per five gallons and
>enough sugar to bring the gravity to 1.090 or higher. Add natural
>fruit flavoring enhancers to bring out flavor and give more aroma.
>Add sugar gradually both initially and for sweetening. Add 1/2 the
>initial sugar and take a gravity reading or taste if you are
>sweetening a finished wine before adding the rest. This will insure
>that your wine doesn't come out too strong. Fermentation will stop
>automatically, but wine must be stabilized with potassium sorbate if
>sugar is added after fermentation for sweetening. This will prevent
>renewed fermentation.
>Use an open plastic bucket for a fermenter. For one gallon batches it
>is best to use a two gallon bucket and for five gallon batches, use a
>seven gallon bucket. Sterilize your fermenter and any equipment that
>will come into contact with the must. Dissolve the sugar and additives
>in a quart of warm water. Add the fruit puree and enough water to
>equal one gallon total volume. Add the other ingredients except the
>yeast. Stir well. Take a gravity reading. The must should be between
>1.090 and 1.100. If it is lower, add enough sugar to bring the gravity
>up. Approximately 4 oz. of sugar will raise the gravity 10 points in
>one gallon of water. Make up a yeast starter using Red Star Cote Des
>Blancs or Lalvin 71B-1122 yeast and add to the must. If your bucket
>does not include a lid, cover the fermenter with cheese cloth or a
>fine nylon mesh straining bag. This allows the must to breathe. Stir
>must every day for 5 to 7 days (until the gravity is about 1.030).
>Rack into a sterilized one gallon jug or three gallon glass carboy
>(depending on volume made). Attach an airlock and ferment for 2 to 4
>weeks or until fermentation is complete. The gravity reading should be
>1.000 or lower. Rack wine off the sediment into another sterilized
>gallon jug or glass carboy. Add a fining agent according to directions
>and let set for 4 weeks. The wine can be bottled when it is clear and
>stable.
>For a sweeter wine, dissolve 2 to 4 teaspoons of sugar in 1/4 cup warm
>water. Add 1/2 teaspoon potassium sorbate to the wine and then add the
>sugar mixture to wine.
>

That's a low foamer. You could get away with less head space. If your
using a carboy , I would think that if the carboy was filled to the
shoulders , you'd have plenty of room. BTW, your wine will most likely
be dry as a bone when done.

Bob

OK I hope I didn't screw this up -

1. I dumped all 10lbs of sugar on top of the blueberry puree. I
didn't dissolve it first. Same with the additives, I just dumped them
in. Is that bad?

2. So I have to stir it every day for 5-7 days? I guess I better
start, it's been 2 days and I haven't stirred it.

Do I stir it right again right before racking it into the carboy?
With the puree, will there be any sediment on the bottom of the primary?

On 8 Mar 2005 18:04:07 -0800, wrote:

> OK I hope I didn't screw this up -
>
> 1. I dumped all 10 lbs of sugar on top of the blueberry puree. I
> didn't dissolve it first. Same with the additives, I just dumped
> them in. Is that bad?

Note: I have never made wine so my advice is probably not worth
much.

Did you add Campden tablets or other sterilizing agent? If not,
you will probably (want to / wanted to) disolve the sugar in a
gallon or two of boiling water and then dump it on the puree; when
it (cools / cooled), then (add/added) yeast and any "additives."

> 2. So I have to stir it every day for 5-7 days? I guess I better
> start, it's been 2 days and I haven't stirred it.
>
> Do I stir it right again right before racking it into the carboy?
> With the puree, will there be any sediment on the bottom of the primary?
>

---
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"No man is wise enough to be another man's master. Each man's as good as
the next -- if not a damn sight better." -- Edward Abbey

No I didn't use any campden. According to what I was told, since I'm
using sterilized blueberry puree and not fresh fruit, I wont need
campden tablets until much later?

No,

You didn't screw it up. Just make sure you stir it well. You could stir
before putting it in the carboy that way you get all the stuff in the
carboy. You will have to rack though when fermentation is done if you
transfer before fermentaion completes which I would suggest you do.

Bob

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> OK I hope I didn't screw this up -
>
> 1. I dumped all 10lbs of sugar on top of the blueberry puree. I
> didn't dissolve it first. Same with the additives, I just dumped them
> in. Is that bad?

Yes, very much so.
>
> 2. So I have to stir it every day for 5-7 days? I guess I better
> start, it's been 2 days and I haven't stirred it.

Stir it daily as long as fermentation continues on the fruit.
>
> Do I stir it right again right before racking it into the carboy?

NO!!!

> With the puree, will there be any sediment on the bottom of the primary?
>
Abundant berry fragments and seeds. Yes, you will want to strain it when
racking from the bucket to the carboy. Let's hope you haven't just learned
an expensive lesson.
Bob
--
--
"Honey, would you get me a beer?!"
- Adam's first words to Eve-

I don't have any berry fragments and seeds. I used oregon blueberry
puree. I'm thinking thats why it's OK that I didn't boil up the sugar
and additives first. I think the puree is more forgiving on how you
mix the stuff in, no?

Since he started with just blueberry puree there should be no seeds and not
that many berry fragments!
If he had mixed properly at first then all this advice about stirring would
be irrelevant -- and dangerous too!

Too many cooks spoiling the broth I'm afraid --- which is why I stepped
out of it.

Wine likes to be left to get on with it -- especially one made from just
juice --the original poster has had so much advice in this string that he
doesn't know whether he is standing on his head or not. Even has had advice
from one poster who has never made wine and drinks one glass of wine a year!

Talk about chaos!

--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"Bob" > wrote in message
...
>
<snip><snip>
> Abundant berry fragments and seeds. Yes, you will want to strain it
> when
> racking from the bucket to the carboy. Let's hope you haven't just learned
> an expensive lesson.
> Bob
> --
> --
> "Honey, would you get me a beer?!"
> - Adam's first words to Eve-
>
>

You are offering bad advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You haven't made wine!

and you are confusing the original poster

--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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<desertphile@hot mail. com (Desertphile, American Patriot)> wrote in message
...

> Note: I have never made wine so my advice is probably not worth
> much.
>
> Did you add Campden tablets or other sterilizing agent? If not,
> you will probably (want to / wanted to) disolve the sugar in a
> gallon or two of boiling water and then dump it on the puree; when
> it (cools / cooled), then (add/added) yeast and any "additives."
>
>> 2. So I have to stir it every day for 5-7 days? I guess I better
>> start, it's been 2 days and I haven't stirred it.
>>
>> Do I stir it right again right before racking it into the carboy?
>> With the puree, will there be any sediment on the bottom of the primary?
>>
>
> ---
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>
> "No man is wise enough to be another man's master. Each man's as good as
> the next -- if not a damn sight better." -- Edward Abbey

Pinkster,

It just goes to show you that there is more than one way to a
successful finish. Bottom line is if he stirs it it's ok and if he
doesn't it's ok. If he racks off the sediment during fermentation is ok
and if he leaves the sediment until shortly after fermentation thats ok
too. Since he doesn't have a cap he really doesn't need to do anything
but get it topped up after ferment. If the juices has no pulp or seeds
he could leave it on the lees for an extended period as long as he
stirs at least once a month. There is no right way and all ways will
lead to a great wine as long as oxygen is keet away. That's my 2 cents.

Bob

pinky wrote:
> Since he started with just blueberry puree there should be no seeds
and not
> that many berry fragments!
> If he had mixed properly at first then all this advice about stirring
would
> be irrelevant -- and dangerous too!
>
> Too many cooks spoiling the broth I'm afraid --- which is why I
stepped
> out of it.
>
> Wine likes to be left to get on with it -- especially one made from
just
> juice --the original poster has had so much advice in this string
that he
> doesn't know whether he is standing on his head or not. Even has had
advice
> from one poster who has never made wine and drinks one glass of wine
a year!
>
> Talk about chaos!
>
> --
> Trevor A Panther
> In South Yorkshire, England
> Remove "PSANTISPAM" from my address line to reply.
> All outgoing mail is scanned by Norton
> Anti Virus for your protection too!
> "Bob" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> <snip><snip>
> > Abundant berry fragments and seeds. Yes, you will want to strain
it
> > when
> > racking from the bucket to the carboy. Let's hope you haven't just
learned
> > an expensive lesson.
> > Bob
> > --
> > --
> > "Honey, would you get me a beer?!"
> > - Adam's first words to Eve-
> >
> >

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> I don't have any berry fragments and seeds. I used oregon blueberry
> puree. I'm thinking thats why it's OK that I didn't boil up the sugar
> and additives first. I think the puree is more forgiving on how you
> mix the stuff in, no?
>
It has always been my experience that the better everything is mixed
from the beginning the easier it is to come up with a good finished product.
I puree my own blueberries, so that is why I'm getting seeds etc. Good luck!
Blueberry wine is awesome stuff.
Bob
--
http://www.RoanokeIsland.com
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